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Thread: TD5 EGT's.

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    if its a stock map, something may be restricting the exhaust or the EGT gauge is not reading correctly for one reason or another, you did calibrate it prior to install right?
    At the risk of sounding like a dill, there was nothing in the install instructions re calibration. Other than dipping the probe into boiling water (ie up to 100 degrees), how could I calibrate it to 700 degrees?

  2. #22
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    you need to check the initial calibration as best you can.

    the 0-100 is a good starting point, most wont start to read below about 50 however.

    put the probe in a pot of water and bring it to the boil watch what the gauge does as you compare it with a known good thermometer and it should top at 100.

    (the reason I bought this up is because ATM we're having some problems with GSE thats shutting down during startup as the EGT's are reporting high, testing them with boiling water and the ECU is showing 250 degrees)
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #23
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    Hey guys,

    Sorry to bring up an old thread, best I do this than start another thread on the same topic.

    What I love doing on AULRO is picking a topic and researching / searching the **** out of it, I love the search function and reading up on all the knowledge you lads have kindly departed so many thanks to you all for the hours of reading gents.

    Anyways, after reading about VNT then side tracked to EGTs this evening I am concerned about permanent damage I may have done.

    I have a D2a with most of the fruit, Bruce Davis intercooler / ECU / turbo boost module / heavy duty transmission fluid cooler then Safari snorkel, full Taipan 3" turbo back all the items that appears to heavily effect temps.

    I'm heavy - ARB front bar, winch, Kaymar rear back with swing always, sliders and pumpkin protectors, G4 challenge roof rack with ARB roof tent, cargo barrier, draws, 3 yellow top optimas.... The list goes on.

    Long story is I love sand work, Moreton, Fraser and Stradbroke ect, all while skull dragging my single axel dual jet ski trailer (1400kg) through the dunes and the white hot fluffy sand at high tides.
    One time comes to mind in particular when I recovered a Toyota in reverse going through Indian Head at Fraser while my skis were attached as well.... My Landy was taking more hits than a discipline child, full noise churning my 33"s in low range... Needed to get the family through as their daughter was having seizures and needed to meet support staff down south towards the barge.

    Now reading this post and being empowered by knowledge of EGTs and the guidance you gents have imparted strikes the fear of the devil in me...

    I can only imagine my EGT has reach in excess of 800 for long periods of time, would you agree with this assumption?
    I know for a fact my engine watchdog reflects my transmission fluid reaching over 150c and that's going through a second cooler driving on the black stuff up Toowoomba Range at 100km/h with my trailer when I recently move to Perth . So it makes me cringe to the thought of my manifold temps.

    I am having the head pulled in one month to have my dowels changed from plastic to steel, have a top end check and my valve clearances re set ect all before the Cape next year. I have also made the decision to have a VNT fitted at the same time.

    What could I have weaken / damaged that I need the boys to look for or to further investigate before I depart next year for the Telegraph Trail? I am going from Perth across the centre past Red Rock and don't want to break down.

    Lastly a recommendation on a quality brand EGT analogue guage or is digital more accurate? I am fond of a nice round guage watching the needle but I am willing to change old school mentality for a better item aka digital guage.

    Thanks again peeps,

    I appreciate your time in advance.

  4. #24
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    ease up on the panic button there, snap the safety back on.

    EGT is the engine trying to make torque, The fire wants to push the piston down faster but its not moving so pressure increases. As pressure increases temperature increases (basic diesel 101 compression ignition)

    Know whats great about landrovers? Lowest gearing in low range stock out of the box. Mass torque multiplication equals less stress on the engine but higher gear box temps if you try to use all of it.

    Heres a really quick and dirty guide to EGT, If your loaded up and not already at wide open throttle then you bury the boot if the engine RPMS increase and the vehicle begins to speed up then you are most likely not at maximum safe EGT. IF you have any doubt about it, smack it back a gear and let the engine rev a bit more with a lower torque loading.

    As to your EGTS in the configuration you have having a maximum EGT thats safe.. dunno but odds are if you're in low one or 2 short of trying to pull an MBT up towoomba range if the RPMS were over 2000 I doubt you have anything to worry about.

    since the trans temp was only 150deg C depending on where the temp sender was located (I put them in the line that delivers to the cooler) you've nothing to worry about, a TD5 worked like yours, given enough load at the wheels, should be able to heat the trans oil up to the kind of temperatures they use in the refineries to crack crude.

    The probe itself is the more important part, the gauge itself is a matter of preference, Personally I like the old school dial gauges and I set them up so that left of vertical is good and right is bad.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  5. #25
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    High EGTs from remap??

    I need some advice from those that have remaps and how they have affected EGTs.

    I have a TD5 D2a Auto with about 204K on the clock, only mods being EGR blanked off and decat pipe. I have an EGT installed with the probe in the manifold upstream of the turbo flange.

    I uploaded a mid-level remap from one of the main reputable remap suppliers last week. The low and mod-level throttle response is hugely improved, driving around town now is low a low throttle experience to keep the licence intact and you can feel it just wants to go harder.

    I am concerned about EGTs at wider throttle settings though. If I nail the go pedal the EGTs seem to go scary high. Pre-remap, I could cruise at 100km/h easily sub-600 degrees, and see 600s with acceleration, and just get into the 700s where I would be definately lightening up on the pedal. The above was the same towing my 2T boat.

    I just came back from a 50km trip out towing the boat. I struggled to maintain 90km/h on the flat road, as even then the EGTs where in the high 600s to mid 700s, and to try to accelerate any further would see the EGTs into the high 700s or 800s. Heaven help me if I had encountered a hill, as there would be no way I could use any right foot without getting EGTs into the high 800s.

    Also, I have a TM2 installed. Previously, it would sit on 88-9 degrees normally, or 92-4degrees when towing. Today it climbed to 100 degrees, and I was having to moderate throttle inputs (and therefore speed) to stop it climbing.

    To those with remaps, does your remap give high EGTs at high throttle settings? (I know I can't have extra power without some tradeoff, but at present even a small throttle poke will provoke EGTs into the 800s easily.)

    I will be going back to the remap supplier to have them amend the supplied map as to me it is too punchy (seems to be too focused on power at expense of EGTs). I would appreciate any thoughts on whether I am getting excited about nothing in the first place????

  6. #26
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    Hey Chris
    First i'd check the calibration of the gauge. The boiling water check works good. Through my experience towing 2300kg's of caravan around, don't be too concerned. Make sure your getting accurate readings before hitting the panic button. Fitting a custom intercooler, bigger exhaust and turning the wick up on the turbo a little will help lower EGT's but it will cost.
    Regards
    Robbo

  7. #27
    Tombie Guest
    What's your boost level?
    And what did you ask your remapping provider for?

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    What's your boost level?
    And what did you ask your remapping provider for?
    How do I measure boost level? Does the nanocom monitor this in instrument mode?

    Instructions for the remap supplier were simply an increase in driveability, better towing ability, didn't need/want a dragstrip rocketship.

  9. #29
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    yep instrument mode.
    Regards
    Robbo

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjc_td5 View Post
    How do I measure boost level? Does the nanocom monitor this in instrument mode?

    Instructions for the remap supplier were simply an increase in driveability, better towing ability, didn't need/want a dragstrip rocketship.
    I have a gauge for mine but I don't have it hooked up yet. I have also just got a new tune about a week ago from Jose at TD5Inside.

    Mine has a bit of history as the previous owner had a Bruce Davis tune. Through some research and info on here, I found the Bruce Davis tune was a EU3 tune and I have a EU2 vehicle. You can search for the differences but the main one was the EU3 has a atmospheric pressure sensor and the EU2 doesn't. With the EU3 tune mine went reasonably well but was over fueling and had (what I think) was pretty high EGT. I would hit over 700 and have to back off about 115km/h or so if I held it flat from a stop start. That was not really an issue as I don't think I have ever had to accelerate that quick in normal driving, I only did it as a test. The problem was I could achieve the same EGT accelerating from 100 - 130km/h when over taking. Then I would have to back off due to EGT and may not complete the over take.

    I contact Bruce Davis and he was pretty unhelpful. First he sounded like he didn't know what I was taking about with the differences and then he wanted to charge me to fix it. I see it as it was his mistake in the first place.

    I ran the Base map for a while and it was very noticeably down on power from the Bruce Davis tune but the EGT never went over 700. I didn't try it towing anything. I liked the power and I have an alarm on my EGT gauge so I stuck with the Bruce Davis tune until I could afford a decent tune.

    I got the TD5Inside tune mainly for the fuel economy of a good tune. I wasn't expecting so much more drivabilty and power over the Bruce Davis tune. My EGTs will still go about 650 by about 120km/h which is better then the Bruce Davis tune but not quiet as low as the base tune. I think a little higher EGT is expected with a tune.

    I have also played with winding the boost up. I adjusted the waste gate while repeatedly testing it using the Nanocom to see where it was at. I think it took about 7 turns before it hit boost cut and then I wound it back about 1/4 but I have since wound it back another 1/4 as it hit boost cut once again.

    Just to give you an idea how much quicker the TD5Inside tune brings it on to boost. I had cleaned the intercooler about 3 days before I loaded the new tune on. When I cleaned the intercooler, I accidentally left of the tube between the turbo to intercooler pipe and the waste gate modulator. The tube meant no air was going to the waste gate so it was staying closed no matter what the adjustment was. For those 3 days I never hit boost cut once and I do tend to be a little bit of a lead foot.

    I installed the new tune and took it steady for the first couple of blocks and then it kept starting to die about 2500rpm. I didn't know what was going on but searching through the Nanocom I found I was hitting boost cut. My first reaction was to email Jose and ask if there was set point or something that the waste gate modulator was set to open and maybe he had set it too high. He was taking a few hours to get back to me and I was doing mine our bit of research in the mean time. I managed to find the problem, fix it and email him back before he got to it.

    I just found it interesting the old tune couldn't get enough boost even with the waste gate shut.

    Have I told you how good the new tune is?

    I am still to sort a couple of things with Jose but I am happy as already.

    Happy Days.

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