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Thread: Painting guards

  1. #1
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    Painting guards

    Hi All

    I am painting a few bits and pieces and wondered if people paint the inside of front wings, underside of seat base and underside of rearbtub etc the same colour as the outside. In my case I am using Camino gold.

    Secondly, I wrote in a while back about my rear prop shaft not fitting length ways after rebuilding diffs, gearbox, engine etc.

    I got around to measuring another 109 wagon and found the only thing out is the rear diff is too far forward. The springs and there position are ok.

    I believe there is so much flex in the rear springs that when I add the some weight like the rear tub and fuel tank and so on this should level out the springs.

    The curve on the springs is huge.

    Will keep you posted.

    Have been reading all the projects new and old and am really inspired to make more time for my old beast.

    Thanks John

  2. #2
    Timj is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
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    The inside of the front guards on my S3 are not painted and as far as I can remember under the seatbox is not either. As long as they are alloy parts then there is not a lot of point unless you think people are going to look there.

    Have your springs been reset or something? Also when they were last put in was the truck settled and weighted before the shackle bolts were tightened up? They need to be tightened basically when the spring is sitting in the middle of it's travel as otherwise the rubber in the bushes will fail fairly quickly.

    TimJ.
    Snowy - 2010 Range Rover Vogue
    Clancy - 1978 Series III SWB Game.
    Henry - 1976 S3 Trayback Ute with 186 Holden
    Gumnut - 1953 Series I 80"
    Poverty - 1958 Series I 88"
    Barney - 1979 S3 GS ex ADF with 300tdi
    Arnie - 1975 710M Pinzgauer

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the reply.

    I stripped, buffed and repainted the springs careful to keep the correct sides together. I haven't done the hangar bolts up yet because there is no weight on them yet.

    I am painting the tub then fitting it to see how the springs settle.

    Regarding the inner guards, because I am painting the outside I wanted to tidy up the inside.

    Should I keep it the same inner and outer( Camino gold) or some other colour.

    Thanks

  4. #4
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    things to do

    Quote Originally Posted by JOHN T View Post

    Secondly, I wrote in a while back about my rear prop shaft not fitting length ways after rebuilding diffs, gearbox, engine etc.

    I got around to measuring another 109 wagon and found the only thing out is the rear diff is too far forward. The springs and there position are ok.

    I believe there is so much flex in the rear springs that when I add the some weight like the rear tub and fuel tank and so on this should level out the springs.

    The curve on the springs is huge.
    Hi John

    I remember that posting about your tailshaft length, could it be that the spring itself is the wrong length?

    Try and measure your spring from eye to eye by using a cloth type measuring tape laid along the main leaf, then go and do the same on another same wheelbase landrover


    Quote Originally Posted by JOHN T View Post

    I am painting a few bits and pieces and wondered if people paint the inside of front wings, underside of seat base and underside of rearbtub etc the same colour as the outside. In my case I am using Camino gold.
    The factory, in it's rush to get Land Rovers out the door, didn't paint in those places.
    But if extreme restoration isn't your bag, then do whatever please's you.
    To quieten the noise down, there are some really effective sound deadening paints available now.

    Cheers Arthur

  5. #5
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    Hi Auther

    I did measure the springs and they are the same length just very curved.

    I actually measured everything all over the vehicles from many different positions but came up with the curve forcing the diff forward about 50mm.

    I took the spring off and put it on the ground upside down and put force downwards in the centre of the spring. I then measure length eye to eye that way( as well as along the curve) and although there was still a fair curve it obviously lengthened the spring eye to eye quite a bit.

    Regarding the sound deafened under the guards and seat base etc I just can't picture what colour will look ok. I am happy to go the gold or some suggestions please.

    Thanks John

  6. #6
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    G'day John, just in case it hasn't occurred to you, if your tailshaft is too long with no weight on the chassis, it will be too long when the suspension unweights over bumps etc, you need to have clearance in the splines throughout the whole range of axle movement or you will end up destroying your transfer case.

  7. #7
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    G'day Pod

    When I get some weight on the back I will check for enough movement with extra caution.
    If it's still too long I will go from there.
    As said above there is a huge curve in the spring and they are not new so I reckon they will straighten enough.

  8. #8
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Do you have shock absorbers or check straps fitted? These should limit the spring travel. If these are fitted and the prop shaft is still too long, you have a problem, as the prop shaft will damage the transfer case on rebound.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  9. #9
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    Shocks and straps not fitted yet. I will get some wieght on there then check those.

    Thanks.

  10. #10
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    If I was painting under the arches, I'd go for a mid to dark grey. From an aesthetic only point of view, those areas are not meant to be seen. A bright colour will draw more attention to the tyres, and will be forever grimy so if someone is close enough to see it won't be pretty, whilst black will be a stark void that emphasises the rims.
    Or just leave it raw Birmabright

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