hub seal: did I push in to far?

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Originally Posted by uninformed

hey all, Im in the middle of doing the rear hub seal on my 1998 Def110 c/chassis. It has a MD rear locker/axles etc and runs oil into the wheel bearings. So I am doing what landrover call the inner seal, the large one inside the back of the hub. After disasembly and clean, I fitted the hub seal, Part# RTC3511 and used a baked bean can to press it in, by hand, nice and square(as best I could). I think I pushed it in to far. I believe there is a shoulder inside before the inner wheel bearing and I think it is seated against this...

pics attached

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I may be miss reading your pictures, to me to me it looks like your seals are in back tofront

Hodgo

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Originally Posted by LowRanger

I think that what Dave is saying is that the specification is for the distance from the outer lip of the seal to the lip of the hub is 4mm,which puts the inner lip of the seal(the part with the spring) will then be parallel with the outer lip of the hub.In reality,as long as the inner lip of the seal is NOT protruding out past the metal edge of the hub,then you will have no problem.

Wayne

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I think I get what you are saying, but to me, there is quite a difference between flush and 3 mm low, as I have it. Does the seal, seal in 2 spots? That is on the OD of the stub axle(spindle) AND on the face of it??? If so then the depth of the seal would seem to be important???

The seal seals on the outer diameter,it doesn't seal on the face,which is where a lot of people go wrong,they leave the seal with the inner lip protruding and that allows the seal to rub on the face,and that leads to failure.

Wayne

I use the drive flange as a tool to insert the seal, tap it all the way in to the back of the bearing, it is fine. MAKE SURE the outer lip is outermost though, IE the lip of the RTC3511 that is protruding ABOVE the seal outer body, this has to be facing towards the differential/ stub axle.
BTW, the seals in your pic are inserted the right way. :)

JC

the correct seating depth for the single lipped seal with a wiper is 4mm from the face of the seal (thats not the tapered wiper seal). the wiper seal needs to be flush with or juuust proud of the hub so it can contact the face of the stub axle, the theory is that this keeps the outside world from getting in touch with the primary sealing part. (thats the bit you're missing, you have the better of the 2 seals)

the double lipped seals dont have the wiper seal so need to be seated so that they dont rub on the face of the stub axle. If when you wipe the ruler over the edge of the hub you touch the seal with any real contact then youve not got it in deep enough. also because the double lipped seals dont have a "face" as such and the normal seal seating tool invariably sets them way too low and the face of the stub will rip the seal to pieces.



conversly with the double lipped seal if the seal is touching the bearing then you're in too deep,

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

the correct seating depth for the single lipped seal with a wiper is 4mm from the face of the seal (thats not the tapered wiper seal). the wiper seal needs to be flush with or juuust proud of the hub so it can contact the face of the stub axle, the theory is that this keeps the outside world from getting in touch with the primary sealing part. (thats the bit you're missing, you have the better of the 2 seals)

the double lipped seals dont have the wiper seal so need to be seated so that they dont rub on the face of the stub axle. If when you wipe the ruler over the edge of the hub you touch the seal with any real contact then youve not got it in deep enough. also because the double lipped seals dont have a "face" as such and the normal seal seating tool invariably sets them way too low and the face of the stub will rip the seal to pieces.



conversly with the double lipped seal if the seal is touching the bearing then you're in too deep,

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Like Dave says 4mm is the factory advice, but I tap them in all the way so I can be 100% certain it is square. I once machined a drive flange to 4mm depth etc etc but in the end I measured the actual clearance between the inner race seating surface and the inner seal lip and found it to be 2 to 3mm onto the seal surface of the stub, so now I just tap them in all the way and because it seats on the machined ledge it is certain to be square.

JC

I don't go by the factory specs simply because the seal will rub on the same place on the stub which will bugger the seal.I fit mine to a different depth each time so the lips run on a fresh unused part of the stub,the last time I did mine I simply put the seal in flush and fitted the hub to the stub and away I went. Pat

well the same seal/hub has leaked. Did it again today/tonight and couldnt see anything wrong as I removed it all. Fitted the new seal with the driveflange as JC said. Hope it works. If it fails again Ill have to get someone to check my workings or maybe replace the stub axle....

I've only ever had one leak Serg and I just used a speedi-sleeve to fix/clean the seal surface up, but sometimes a new/good stub axle is cheaper.

I have had a few problems with leaking double lip seals because of seating depth.
So I put some bearing blue (or you can use grease) on the seal bearing surface on the hub and fitted (just) only the seal and moved it inwards so that both lips of the seal were on the bearing surface, but not riding up on the fillet at the rear of the seal bearing surface. I removed the seal and noted the marks left by the seal and fitted the seal to the hub to where I thought it should go and fitted the hub.
I had to adjust the depth of the seal a few times to get it spot on, a bit fiddly and different on each hub, but it has never leaked again.
The aim is to get both lips of the (oil) seal on the seal bearing surface and not touching or riding up on the fillet at the rear of the seal surface, which will destroy the seal and to have both lips sealing, hope this helps, Regards Frank.