Any pics on the flange fillers?
I am thinking I might get some cheap diff oil and simple run it round the block to heat up and drain and discard to flush then put syntrax in.
Skiboy
Printable View
Any pics on the flange fillers?
I am thinking I might get some cheap diff oil and simple run it round the block to heat up and drain and discard to flush then put syntrax in.
Skiboy
pic should be attached.
So unless you are going to flush it with a compatable synthetic ie Syntrax, what is the difference between doing the cheap oil flush, and just driving around to heat up the exsisting and dump that???
That's all I'd do if you're trying to get rid of the water, using something like Multitrax (75W-90) or similar that's relatively thin when cold and cheap.Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiboy
It's been a looong time since I've flushed an emulsified diff out, and it was easy as it was a Dana, just pop open the cover :D
IIRC we used kero and metho to get the water out, lost of compressed air and then a few diff oil flushes.
and yes, I'd go for a cheaper mineral based oil if you are going to have more water leaks, no point in wasting an exxy syn fluid.
Saying that, I'd still try and use the most robust fluid you can get your hands on if the rig's being used for comp work, it can make a huge difference in CWP and bearing life.
In general you'll find that the oil companies truck labels, eg Caltex Delo, Mobil Delvac, will be a more heavy duty oil than their 'standard' offerings, and that Caltex fluid I mentioned above is supposed to be very, very good according to an expert I've spoken to. He really rates Chevron/Texaco (Caltex) gear oils, and he develops and blends oils for another smaller company.
Update - no water in diff - but fairly dark esp given only 1 yr old and maybe 3,000 k MAX
So will flush again after next trip and see
Skiboy