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Thread: Correct Front Drive Shaft

  1. #1
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    Question Correct Front Drive Shaft

    The front drive shaft on my 88" (1974) Series 3 has bruising on the yokes at both ends that seems to indicate it has been operating at too tight an angle. I am not sure if these marks are recent or have been done prior to me owning the vehicle. Are all 88" front shafts the same, if not how do I identify if this is the correct shaft?
    Is there a Part number or measurement?
    The shaft looks to be newer than original, so I assume it is a replacement.
    Originally the shaft was fitted the wrong way about with the telescopic section at the transfer case end, could this have caused the problem?

    Any help or information will be greatly appreciated.

    Thankyou and Cheers, Mick
    Last edited by mick88; 11th October 2011 at 06:49 AM. Reason: typo
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by mick88 View Post
    The front drive shaft on my 88" (1974) Series 3 has bruising on the yokes at both ends that seems to indicate it has been operating at too tight an angle. I am not sure if these marks are recent or have been done prior to me owning the vehicle. Are all 88" front shafts the same, if not how do I identify if this is the correct shaft?
    Is there a Part number or measurement?
    The shaft looks to be newer than original, so I assume it is a replacement.
    Originally the shaft was fitted the wrong way about with the telescopic section at the transfer case end, could this have caused the problem?

    Any help or information will be greatly appreciated.

    Thankyou and Cheers, Mick
    All 88 shafts are the same, or at least interchangeable. Likely causes are non-standard yokes, or perhaps more likely, raised or modified suspension, in particular if it has had extended shackles fitted without the extended front spring mount, as this will twist the diff down (operating with failed front bushes could have a similar effect, as could operation with loose U-bolts or broken centre bolt). Another possibility is excess spring deflection due to operating with failed shock absorber bushes or without shock absorbers, as these limit the front suspension travel. Broken engine mounts could also allow excessive angles. But the normal operation is not close to critical - army and 110 vehicles had no problems with this with raised suspension.

    It should make no difference which way the shaft is fitted as far as angles go - the only reason for having the sliding joint forward is so that forward movement does not force water and dirt against the seal.

    John
    Last edited by JDNSW; 11th October 2011 at 07:44 AM. Reason: More thoughts.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Thanks John.

    When I think back the vehicle may have had home made extended shackle hangers front and rear.
    I have had it on the road for about ten years now, but when I purchased it, the registration had expired, and whilst preparing it for a roadworthy certificate I changed them back to standard.

    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

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