Ok, Looking at getting a cargo barrier and to save the extreme fitting cost, I want to do it myself.
First, anybody got a cheap 2nd hand oneand 2ndly anybody done it got any good tips on a D1. I'll only do the single position I think.
Secondly, as the child restraint points would have to pass through the barrier to be fitted, what happens to them??
1994 Discovery TDi
2004 Discovery 2 TD5
2010 Discovery 4 TDV6
1961, Series 2 Ambulance. 108-098 - Eden
Registry of Ex Military Land Rovers Mem. 129
Defence Transport Heritage Tasmania Member
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Brilliant, thanks loanrangie!
1994 Discovery TDi
2004 Discovery 2 TD5
2010 Discovery 4 TDV6
1961, Series 2 Ambulance. 108-098 - Eden
Registry of Ex Military Land Rovers Mem. 129
Defence Transport Heritage Tasmania Member
Fitting is someone with a cool calm manner should be able to undertake. I've done a couple in RRCs. It is fiddly but not difficult. I currently have a barrier in my D1 wreck (barrier is available but freight may not be worthwhile).
You could use a second hand barrier, but will probably need to buy a fitting kit with the nuts and bolts etc. I do not think the fitting kit can really be recovered from a vehicle as a number of the plates etc are within the hollow sections of the turret and floor etc. Looking at the fitting instructions will help explain what I am meaning.
I think you can download the fitting instructions from maker, or have seen one, maybe in AULRO Files.
Michael T
2011 L322 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Vogue
Aussie '88 RR Tdi300 (+lpg), Auto (RIP ... now body removed after A pillar, chassis extension to 130 & fire tender tray.)
I have fitted a few second hand barriers over the years. If you can visit a wreckers where the proprietor lets you chisel open the roof rails to get out the anchors, it will be a bonus! You should be able to adapt generic top mounts off a falcodore etc.
The floor mounts on a D1 are a doddle as the floor is single skin next to the wheel arch and the anchorages are easily accessible from underneath. Once you have pushed the barrier to its best position mark the 3 holes needed for each floor mount, drop a longish 10mm bolt through the centre hole, screw the anchor assembly on with your fingers and pull it up with the bolt. Insert and tighten the two smaller screws and remove the temp bolt and you're away. I often have to shift D1 lower mounts when fitting a LPG manifold tank.
As for the upper mounts, I haven't done a D1 but on a Falcon you use a hole saw to cut the centre hole to insert the anchor, slide it in and manouver it into place with a piece of tie wire. You mustn't drop it because once you do it's there forever rattling around in the rail.
Oh and if you don't have enough anchor screws for the barrier, just use grade 8.8 zinc plated M10 x 30 bolts instead. Having them spanner tight helps them to stay put.
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