Cracked 4.6 block, Sourcing replacement engine.

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Originally Posted by jamison

Did you keep your old block and still use the liners? I'm worried that I can't trust this block because it's almost certainly cracked. I guess I'm asking if the liners hold the water back regardless of the block behind being full of holes.

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Yes, the liners are fitted to the old block.

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Originally Posted by roverv8

get the heads checked properly, are they warped or even cracked somewhere?

when you say cylinders 5 & 6, were both sides leaking?

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I'm using Pickards of Melbourne - seem like decent enough blokes. That said, a full engine replacement is better business than a skimmed/replaced head.

They have sent the heads away and the report back (I haven't seen it, just what I'm told) is that they are fine.. I could get a 2nd opinion I guess. Any recommendations for head checkers?!

I went to have a look and the two cylinders/pistons were extremely clean compared to the other 6, one looked brand new which suggests water/steam in the cylinder. The head gaskets looked pretty much spotless.

Any sign of a slipped liner?

Do a search on this forum for that term.

See the pics and info I posted here: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...er#post1186783

It's probably good to remember that 4.0 litre BLOCK from D2 or p38 is essentially the same as 4.6. The crank, rods and pistons are different. I built a 4.6 from a 4 litre block that had slipped liners x2 with top hat liners from ACR in UK. I had Pearl Automotive Engineering in Montrose instal the liners and deck the block. Wayne offers a 'bare bones' to complete engine rebuild service, and at reasonable rates to the trade.

Remember that a workshop will offer the best and most profitable deal for THEM first.

Just another option.

Good luck,

Pete

I'd say anyone that is an LR specialist will have confronted the slipped liner or cracked head and will be able to offer a reconditioned or rebuild or your engine. They will have some machine shop that can the do the work required.

I would try AMV at Ringwood or Les Richmond for a comparitive price but $8k doe not sound that far fetched.

Agree with giving AMV a go, they have been the best source of honest, fair and just plain good value work on my P38 over the last 7-8 years or so of ownership...

They have reasonable hourly rates, will happily use parts you source yourself or can provide you with LR genuine, OME or tested used parts to complete the job.

In saying all that, make sure you talk to them directly (i.e no fuss or bull****) about what you already know and are leaning towards and then ask them about the options for your vehicle as they see it.

With out wanting to sound untrustworthy (as I do trust them), use some common sense and ask for written quotes for the various options. Also, tell them you have found them via referrals from AULRO. As with most businesses, they understand 'forum-ites' tend to keep each other informed.

I am no mechanic, but would say that if you intend keeping it for a reasonable period of time, make sure you "top hat" it. I didn't know about how important it was a few years ago and didn't get mine done... brand new LR short motor, but I still have that bugging me whenever I think about it.

Good luck, 3rd times a charm they say don't they?

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Originally Posted by DT-P38

Agree with giving AMV a go, they have been the best source of honest, fair and just plain good value work on my P38 over the last 7-8 years or so of ownership...

They have reasonable hourly rates, will happily use parts you source yourself or can provide you with LR genuine, OME or tested used parts to complete the job.

In saying all that, make sure you talk to them directly (i.e no fuss or bull****) about what you already know and are leaning towards and then ask them about the options for your vehicle as they see it.

With out wanting to sound untrustworthy (as I do trust them), use some common sense and ask for written quotes for the various options. Also, tell them you have found them via referrals from AULRO. As with most businesses, they understand 'forum-ites' tend to keep each other informed.

I am no mechanic, but would say that if you intend keeping it for a reasonable period of time, make sure you "top hat" it. I didn't know about how important it was a few years ago and didn't get mine done... brand new LR short motor, but I still have that bugging me whenever I think about it.

Good luck, 3rd times a charm they say don't they?

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I'm getting good vibes on the Pickards lads, they seem open to my sourcing the stuff myself etc and aren't being pushy - so given she's got the heads off already it kinda makes sense to keep her there through to the end.

Got an interesting dilemma now... 6k for new long engine, 6k for recon top hatted recon long engine. this engine is the only engine in the world that would make me actually lean towards getting the recon top hatted version!!

In answer to the slipped liner 'ridges', no - none there right now but head gasket is fine and two pistons are clean as a whistle... car steamed from exhaust and had the pressurised cooling system - along with emission polluted water.

on the subject, this article is one of the better out there as to why these engines need the flanged liners

JE Robison Service — the blog: The last word on Land Rover liner failures - I hope!

this is the second, which pretty much says if you have an older p38, you'd be better to use the existing block and add the flanged liners than buy a new block

JE Robison Service — the blog: All you ever wanted to know about . . Land Rover V8 Engine Failures

Check this out it might explain why you have steamed cleaned piston crowns and a pressurised cooling system.

Revised Land Rover Engine Block Tester - YouTube