Really? (how's that for a tech answer)?Quote:
Originally Posted by uninformed
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Really? (how's that for a tech answer)?Quote:
Originally Posted by uninformed
yes really, so if you can explain what is going on and why to use it I would appreciate it
And just to add,in commercial A/C fans,if you have a stainless shaft,you always have trouble getting the pully,bearings & fan off the shaft.Even if it has been coated with anti sieze on assembly,after a few yrs everything on the shaft will be siezed on.And if it has an alloy pully,it will never ever move again.
On assembly,use a steel shaft & soft seal coating,will come apart no worries in a few yrs time.Or use anti sieze,but we find soft seal better,comes off easy with CRC.
Thanks mate, but I don't actually need any, just never liked the original wheel nuts rusting. Typical of Land Rover not to put a decent finish on their components, just look at the paint on the rear chassis face of many Defenders (even late model one's)Quote:
Originally Posted by rovercare
I got one set of wheel nuts zinc plated while I was having some other stuff done and they've been good so far, and I do use antseize too.
Cheers,. Murray
Don't you get sick of the dry squeaking and not being able to spin them on and off easily?Quote:
Originally Posted by uninformed
If they do squeak, I can't hear them over the road noise of a lifted defender on muddies. Spinning them on and off doesn't seem to be a problem for the impact wrench. And never had a flat on it in 11 years......Quote:
Originally Posted by Dougal
Dougal means squeaking when you are running the nuts on and off.
Old school mechanics say you must never lubricate a wheel nut/stud/taper and will kick your arse if they see you doing it but I've been doing it for over 25 years now and no issue.
My theory is you will achieve a more correct tension on the assembly if the threads are lubricated, (just as when assembling fasteners anywhere else, eg. assembling an engine) and shock-horror, I lubricate the taper too.
I'm an old school mechanic and I was told to do it at trade school back in the day.
One of the only things I remember from trade school other than how to do a good roll back out the front at knock off time.
Your meant to put the torque wrench on them as well but who actually does that :p
Tech reason is like what was said in the previous thread, more likely to get even tension as your not working against a dry thread.
We were taught to use copper coat but just the loctite never sieze works for me.
Also on the alloy nuts on the shoulder which welds itself to the inside of the hole in the rim the loctite works wonders.
Cheers Casper
I do:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Casper
At home anyway.
Tony
i was taught never to use never sieze and the like on anything you were going to use a torque wrench on.
light machine oil and a wire brush and away you go.