Thread: Stainless steel wheel nuts....Legal ?

yes really, so if you can explain what is going on and why to use it I would appreciate it

And just to add,in commercial A/C fans,if you have a stainless shaft,you always have trouble getting the pully,bearings & fan off the shaft.Even if it has been coated with anti sieze on assembly,after a few yrs everything on the shaft will be siezed on.And if it has an alloy pully,it will never ever move again.
On assembly,use a steel shaft & soft seal coating,will come apart no worries in a few yrs time.Or use anti sieze,but we find soft seal better,comes off easy with CRC.

Originally Posted by rovercare

Do you need wheel nuts Rijidij? I have tubs of them

Thanks mate, but I don't actually need any, just never liked the original wheel nuts rusting. Typical of Land Rover not to put a decent finish on their components, just look at the paint on the rear chassis face of many Defenders (even late model one's)
I got one set of wheel nuts zinc plated while I was having some other stuff done and they've been good so far, and I do use antseize too.

Cheers,. Murray

Originally Posted by uninformed

yes really, so if you can explain what is going on and why to use it I would appreciate it

Don't you get sick of the dry squeaking and not being able to spin them on and off easily?

Originally Posted by Dougal

Don't you get sick of the dry squeaking and not being able to spin them on and off easily?

If they do squeak, I can't hear them over the road noise of a lifted defender on muddies. Spinning them on and off doesn't seem to be a problem for the impact wrench. And never had a flat on it in 11 years......

Dougal means squeaking when you are running the nuts on and off.

Old school mechanics say you must never lubricate a wheel nut/stud/taper and will kick your arse if they see you doing it but I've been doing it for over 25 years now and no issue.

My theory is you will achieve a more correct tension on the assembly if the threads are lubricated, (just as when assembling fasteners anywhere else, eg. assembling an engine) and shock-horror, I lubricate the taper too.

I'm an old school mechanic and I was told to do it at trade school back in the day.

One of the only things I remember from trade school other than how to do a good roll back out the front at knock off time.

Your meant to put the torque wrench on them as well but who actually does that

Tech reason is like what was said in the previous thread, more likely to get even tension as your not working against a dry thread.

We were taught to use copper coat but just the loctite never sieze works for me.

Also on the alloy nuts on the shoulder which welds itself to the inside of the hole in the rim the loctite works wonders.

Cheers Casper

Originally Posted by Casper

Your meant to put the torque wrench on them as well but who actually does that

Cheers Casper

I do
At home anyway.

Tony