Thread: Internal Bead Locks

I had them....now I don't

I reckon a heavy duty tube is better, Internal beadlocks still get crap in the beads and you still have to break the bead to clean them

i've had internals for a few years now. when i first got them i had problems with them losing pressure ie: both the tyre and beadlock pressure would equalize but that was due to a the installer (well known company) not installing according to the instructions. after getting them installed correctly they've been fine.

Originally Posted by rovercare

I had them....now I don't

I reckon a heavy duty tube is better, Internal beadlocks still get crap in the beads and you still have to break the bead to clean them

i've had tyres as low as 7psi in muddy water for hours and no problems with crap in the bead. what tyres did you have and what pressure did you run the beadlocks? i used to have swampers but currently have bfg muddies. i keep the beadlocks at min 40psi.

Originally Posted by BreakingBad

i've had tyres as low as 7psi in muddy water for hours and no problems with crap in the bead. what tyres did you have and what pressure did you run the beadlocks? i used to have swampers but currently have bfg muddies. i keep the beadlocks at min 40psi.

Simex centipedes, 35x10.5x16 on 8", 40 psi internals, 14-16 in the tyres, aggressive driving in the ruts would always see me with a leaky bead, I'm not the only one by far, I had less trouble with Simex tubes fitted, I never lost a bead with them, just niggly leaks

Originally Posted by rovercare

Simex centipedes, 35x10.5x16 on 8", 40 psi internals, 14-16 in the tyres, aggressive driving in the ruts would always see me with a leaky bead, I'm not the only one by far, I had less trouble with Simex tubes fitted, I never lost a bead with them, just niggly leaks

do you know where the niggly leak comes from?

maybe it's the brand of beadlock? i've got secondair.

Originally Posted by BreakingBad

do you know where the niggly leak comes from?

maybe it's the brand of beadlock? i've got secondair.

Crud forced into the bead, it's the nasty driving in ruts that does it, they were second air also, that's why nobody in racing runs them, years ago there were alot with staun and second air headlocks when they were new and in vogue, everyone promptly went back to externals

If they suit you and your driving that's great, just my experience differed, I never used to be nice to my stuff though

Had secondairs for a few years now, not a single problem. Never had crud in the bead. I keep min 30 psi in the bag.

While I've given up on Simexes, they were fitted to stop the damn things from peeling off the rim. Constant Simex problem. The secondairs fixed that once & for all.

Regards
Max P

Originally Posted by rovercare

Simex centipedes, 35x10.5x16 on 8", 40 psi internals, 14-16 in the tyres, aggressive driving in the ruts would always see me with a leaky bead

on a few occasions many many years ago i had 235/85 bfg's on boost alloys without beadlocks and i got crap in the beads after aggressive driving in ruts and sliding down into ruts. on both occasions it was a rear tyre and i hadn't lowered tyre pressures so they were >=40psi (i was new to 4WDing)

Originally Posted by rovercare

I had less trouble with Simex tubes fitted, I never lost a bead with them, just niggly leaks

If you use tubes and you get stuff in the bead the stuff will work its way into the wheel and rub on the tube until it wears a hole in the tube. is that the niggly leak you are referring to?

Anyway, from my experiences and what you've said i'm thinking that the forces applied to tyres by aggressive driving in ruts might be the major factor and if the force is great enough the bead will get stuff in it no matter what. having said that it seems logical that using tubes for this type of driving will give you more time before the tyre goes flat?

Aren't internal beadlocks illegal in all states of Australia on road going cars? (He says with a heavily modified D2 with 235/85 tyres and no muffler and no engineering cert)