3.9 v8 oil pressure

First , did you yet fit a new oil pressure switch?

If so and it is still a problem, have a look at the pressure relief valve and make sure no ridges. Dress if necessary with very fine wet and dry and maybe polish.
With regard to the oil pump, if you buy new gears and a new bottom plate and gasket ,the clearances will be correct.

If there is any scoring on the gears , the figure 8 area of the housing or the bottom plate , then you have to replace those items. The bottom plate is anodised so cannot be machined flat.
Hope it doesn't come to that.
My 209KK 3.9 raises within 0.5 seconds.
Regards Philip A

Hi Phil,

I had a spare pressure switch one from another motor. Not new as such. When I inspected the bottom plate originally I did notice some very light scuff marks but I wouldn't call it scoring. The gears looked great. The motor the pump came out of didn't have this issue with the loss of prime. I don't think I inspected the pressure relief valve/spring just cleaned inside of the bottom plate oil galleries.

Any ideas where to get another bottom plate/gears etc

Cheers

The gears are ERC1351 for the one with the shaft and 614037 for the idler. They are easily available from eBay and the usual parts shops.

The adaptor suffers from the usual modern part number identity crisis and could be ERC2443 or ETC4276 - I still haven't worked out which. However, while it is anodised and isn't supposed to be refaced, it is stupidly expensive so I have read on an English forum where somebody did clean theirs up with the old trick of using a sheet of glass, wet-or-dry sandpaper, and WD40. You sit down for a very long time with a big pile of sandpaper - maybe 400 grit or so - and wet the paper with the WD40 and rub the adaptor in a figure 8. Apparently it worked well for this guy and looked good when he checked many k's later on.

On my old Rangie, I replaced the gears and adaptor with new parts and it did make a nice difference to the oil pressure. I always use a gauge on my cars so that I can tell what's going on!

A bit of an update, I ended up buying a glowshift oil adapter that screws on. I still have to do more testing but on hot idle I'm getting 21psi and at about 2700 It will get to 35psi. Seems too low to me and it took 4-5 seconds to register oil pressure from 2 weeks of not running but steadily went up to 21psi.mmmmm thoughts still?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by milld

A bit of an update, I ended up buying a glowshift oil adapter that screws on. I still have to do more testing but on hot idle I'm getting 21psi and at about 2700 It will get to 35psi. Seems too low to me and it took 4-5 seconds to register oil pressure from 2 weeks of not running but steadily went up to 21psi.mmmmm thoughts still?

---

IMO that's entirely adequate so long as your oil is top notch.

oil is fairly new @ 1000km, Shell HX3 20-50 with about 500ml of Lucas oil. Oil pressure is the same cold as it is hot. Tested with over 30mins of running. Oil temp went to 178 deg F max. My Engine watchdog measured 80 deg C at the block.

Finally gotten around to inspect oil pressure relief valve/spring. The old spring is about 3mm shorter than the new spring. Also changed oil to penrite 15-40. Put in new pressure switch. Slightly annoyed now as I can't seem to prime it. Before I use to simply unplug the main dizzy lead and let the starter do its thing for 30sec to bring oil pressure up. Now after a minute she's still not pressurising. Time to remove the oil pump I guess and pack with Vaseline? Any other brilliant ideas? Is it not pressurising now because of the new spring and the extra force required to let the oil through + air in the oil system

Dizzy out and prime with cordless drill and an steel rod with groove cut in the end of it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MacMan

Dizzy out and prime with cordless drill and an steel rod with groove cut in the end of it.

---

Plus a bit of garden hose to locate it.

If you want to be really fancy, bee utey has the goods :D