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Thread: LT95 diaphragm replacement

  1. #1
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    LT95 diaphragm replacement

    Hi all,

    So after having my rangie up on stands for the better part of a week, while I dodged rain and installed my rear maxi drive, my CDL actuator diaphragm has decided to die on me (getting vac on the other side of the diaphragm).

    I see that LRA has the diaphragms to repair it, do I need to take it off the car to do this job? Or can I pry open the actuator and replace it while it's still on the car...

    Thanks guys

  2. #2
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    Ask Andrew at LRA

  3. #3
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    Depending on whether the actuator is held on with hex or philips head bolts, it may be easier to remove it to perform the delicate surgery of prying open and reswaging the servo.
    Bill.

  4. #4
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    Definitely take it off to do the replacement. It may be possible in the car, but it will take you much longer to do than removing and doing on the bench, and you will get a better job.
    From memory its only 4 bolts to remove, and I drained the oil from the transfer as it looked like it would leak out. Not 100% sure if thats actually necessary, but for a couple of litres of engine oil I didn't think about it too much.

    Put it together with a smear of silicon around the outside edge of the diaphragm where it clamps into the actuator can and make sure the selector fork is central in the housing while pinching the can back together or it will twist the diaphragm when you refit it.

    Steve

  5. #5
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    I once put a 3/4'' hole saw through the servo cover to gain access to the bolt that attaches the diaphram to the difflock selector shaft. This way the actuator housing stayed in position and I just unbolted the servo.
    After fitting the new diaphram i bolted the servo back on and plugged the hole with a 3/4'' rubber gromit and some silicon sealant.
    Bill.

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the replies guys. I'll take a look tomorrow to check if it is phillips or a normal bolt head. If it is a phillips head I might just try that hole saw trick because I don't like my chances of fitting a screwdriver in there or an impact driver as, no doubt they will be stuck in position.

    I don't have to remove the floor or anything silly to take the whole unit out do I?

    At least it's stuck in the unlocked position so I can still drive around

  7. #7
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    If you have the phillips jobs

    grab your impact driver bitset insert one lever it in with a flat head and then turn with a spanner, you may need to shorten the bit depending on what the hex drive spline length is like on your set.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    If you have the phillips jobs

    grab your impact driver bitset insert one lever it in with a flat head and then turn with a spanner, you may need to shorten the bit depending on what the hex drive spline length is like on your set.
    And a bit of valve grinding paste on the bit will give it some extra bite if its still wanting to ride out of the screw.

    Steve

  9. #9
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    350RRC is offline ForumSage Silver Subscriber
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    There is an O ring on the shaft of the actuator that you should replace while it is out. Keeps TC oil out of the diaphragm chamber.

    DL

  10. #10
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    Phew, so had a peek and it hasn't got phillips screws! Win.

    Think i'll be taking the whole lot out, may as well change the oil in the T-case while I'm there. Looking at other peoples photos on here, I think the vac actuator is on upside down.....

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