mitsubishi 4m41t into 98 v8 disco

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

My advice is to sell his V8 .........unless the V8 is stuffed and he has to replace engines .
Regards Philip A

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philipA - that's it.


agree with the sentiment being shown here - get a vehicle together which you are happy with. cost is but one element as long as it's within one's comfort level.

Dougal – might have been the auto. (i genuinely put the 4m40t motor right there with the td5 in my 1999 defender). I test drove a td5 auto disco pre update – the td5 defender would eat it up.

I started this thread talking about the 4m41t but appears there just isn’t any modern diesels being transplanted (well yes by pros), certainly not on a scale. Mechanically it can be done – it’s the electronics. When you look at all the kits available for older motors – why has there been no development done in this area for modern motors? We live in a world of electronics, do the manufacturers simply lock away the info required to decipher and decouple the electronic systems on their cars?

When troubleshooting the 14cux the manuals provide all the info required about what inputs/outputs are expected. The info is there to work out what you have to bodgy up. Eg read on here people wiring in 300 ohm resistor for engine temp.

I am hesistant to scrap the vehicle, it’s got no rust. If I go to the extent of fixing the motor up may as well put a diesel in.

So what options are there on the diesel front? The 4bd1t as discussed. I’m not interested in the older diesels(aside from 4bd1t).

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Originally Posted by pibby

So what options are there on the diesel front? The 4bd1t as discussed. I’m not interested in the older diesels(aside from 4bd1t).

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This.
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y5l65FxR58o]TDV6 Discovery Series I Conversion - YouTube[/ame]

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Originally Posted by pibby

I started this thread talking about the 4m41t but appears there just isn’t any modern diesels being transplanted (well yes by pros), certainly not on a scale. Mechanically it can be done – it’s the electronics. When you look at all the kits available for older motors – why has there been no development done in this area for modern motors? We live in a world of electronics, do the manufacturers simply lock away the info required to decipher and decouple the electronic systems on their cars?

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The problem is the multitude of different electronic systems, especially in the early japanese stuff. Of the lot I think the only one that is standardised enough is the VP44 rotary injection pump. This has a car ECU that sends injection quantity requests to the pump and an ECU on the pump that does the rest. There are only 6 wires between ECU and pump and to run the engint it can be as little as an electronic throttle, crank position sensor (reads notches on flywheel) and MAF sensor.

Past that you are into commonrail, which can be completely integrated and impossible to seperate, but standalone aftrmarket controllers do exist (duramax etc).

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

This.
TDV6 Discovery Series I Conversion - YouTube

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wrote to them and got some further info but not the type i was after. they said no probs speaking to their technician who does conversions inhouse.

searched for people doing writeups of their own conversion using the simtek controller with the tdv6 but maybe they have all signed confidentiality clauses - can't find anything from someone independent who has done it to their own car.

i will call them next week. the writeups sound just a little too simple. when you look at the vid on the d1 there are a number of connections going to the motor which weren't there before and not mentioned. there is no sound insulation on the bonnet nor engine cover - maybe these are just off for the photo. When the guy boots it in the vid he changes gears manually and takes his foot of the accelerator even though it’s an auto – is this a standard technique or is it being done to protect the box?

how on earth does the 4hp22 survive, especially in the long run not just the week after the install and write up was done.

they quote around 35mpg as the d1 is say 400kg light than the d3. that sounds a bit too optimistic.

anyone think of some other areas of concern to raise with them?

they do the 3.0 litre now but I haven’t seen a writeup on what it has been put into.


the article on the d1 conversion says it would cost 6000 pound if doing it yourself. so around $10k.

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When the guy boots it in the vid he changes gears manually and takes his foot of the accelerator even though it’s an auto – is this a standard technique or is it being done to protect the box?

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My conclusion was that the auto was a mechanical one requiring a kickdown cable and they had not figured out how to fit one. This was the single most time consuming part of my Thor conversion.
And IMHO it was as noisy as whatever.
I wonder how economical it would be with a 4 speed auto vs 6 speed with electronic lockup. You may be very disappointed with the outcome as IMHO many of the gains in recent diesels/petrols is the efficiency of the transmissions.
Regards Philip A

Spoke to simtek a couple of weeks ago about the tdv6 into d1. they’re a team of 5 people.

The reason there’s no other info out there on net about the d1 conversion is – no one else has completed one. I took some notes and here’s some of the points I picked up.

Their car has done 30 odd thousand miles, still getting 30 or 32 mpg. Got rid of egr and cats.

Still running 4hp22. the person driving it (who I was speaking to) says it’s holding up really well, only weakness he has found is when going up a hill and put pedal to the floor the point of lock up in fourth doesn’t behave as it should. He noted the lockup points don’t match the power delivery diff b/t diesel and petrol. Has taken it out and thrashed it a few times and hasn’t broken anything – believes because it is an auto and is much more forgiving on the drivetrain.

They’ve ditched the original motor mounts adapters they bolted to the d1 engine mounts and have now welded on the d3 engine mounts to the chassis. There was too much vibration coming through.

The acoustic engine cover does fit back on – just. Have to do a bit of panel beating to part of the bulkhead.

Uses d3 started motor. Kept standard d1 fuel pump in the tank.

Have to lean the radiator back on a slight angle.

With regards to kickdown on auto – didn’t write it down but recall him saying he used a couple of standard parts to get it going, one being a rr ride height sensor.

On the shelf they have the bell housing adapter and torque converter adapter for 350 quid to match tdv6 to 4hp22.

Asked what is the easiest conversion to do and he said the bmw straight 6 into the p38. it is a twin turbo. this motor in the bmw x5 puts out 289HP. With their tune they up it to 320HP (at the wheels???) and this is the bit you have to sit down for. Torque peaks at 1700rpm and then flatlines at 900 NM.

They believe the 4hp24 is perfectly matched as they provide a remap for it. the ecu controlling the auto has 5 inputs but landrover only used 4 of them. they use all five and all reports from those who have driven with their remapping is the auto performs better than when new from land rover.

For an additional charge (250 quid??) they allow you to use the supplied software to do your own fuel maps.

If living in the UK these conversions look doable at the $10k aud mark if doing the work yourself owing to the lower price of the motors. Here in Australia I would think you would have to add a few more thousand to the price. that’s getting outside of my comfort zone.

Here’s a link to their site and a couple of wreckers if someone is looking into engine costs.

Diesel ECU Packages

4x4 Salvage, Landrover Spares, 4x4 Parts, Range Rover Parts, Somerset - cws4x4

Equicar 4x4 UK used parts - used spares - accessories - 4x4 Breakers, Land Rover, Toyota, Mitsubishi shogun, Jeep, 4x4 Dismantlers, Spare Parts, Used Parts, off road, cherokee, discovery, accessories.

At 5km/L and AUD$1.30 per liter for petrol over here, I've been mulling a diesel conversion for some time.

My opinion is that if I can get even 8km/L out of the diesel, I'd get my money back sooner rather than later. My daily commute is 150kms. Getting to the sea from my house is a 600km trip.
Even in an unladen V8 110, I'd be seriously out of pocket before I even crack open a cold one at the beach.

Here is the list of engines I'm collecting info on:

Isuzu: 4BD1T, 4BG1, 4HF1, 4HG1T, 4JB1T, 4JG2
Toyota: 13B-T, 15B-FT, 1KZ-TE
Nissan: TD27T, FD35T, QD32ETi, FD42, FD46
Mitsubishi: 4M40, 4M41
Mazda/Ford: WL25, SL35, TF40, TM46, XA25, HA30

The BOLD units are those that I can find an adapter for.

All of these engines (except for the TD27T and WL25) would provide as much, if not a bit more, HP and torque than a 300TDi. The two I have just mentioned are on a par with the 300TDi.

Sure, I can sell the 110 V8 and buy a 300TDi. Except most of them are now getting towards serious mileage. And then I'd still only have a 300TDi. And a 300TDi would cost me an extra AUD$3,000.

So for AUD$3,000, I can put in a nice strong TDi and hope the LT85 split case holds itself together.

The BMW 3 litre straight six comes in several variants, the 600Nm version runs 42psi boost. I am very sceptical of their 900Nm claim. But even at the 400Nm/130kw single VNT turbo version used in the original L322 it would be an excellent motor for a P38, you should be able to tune it up around 20% without major hardware changes. Does it fit into a D1?

Letting customers do their own fuel maps is quite risky. Or do they "moderate" them after the customer has had a go?

The Isuzu 4H series have a rearward facing starter motor. Sorting this out will likely take more brain power than the rest of the conversion. Otherwise excellent prospect, some are mechanical, some are commonrail.
Toyota 1KZ-TE is indirect injection and quite thirsty. It's possible to build one with a 1KD (direct injection) head, pistons etc to gain the fuel economy, starting and strength benefits of direct injection, but again it's going to take more brain smoke than the rest of the conversion.

I would also scratch the TD27, QD32 (just an updated TD27) and 4M40 from your list for being indirect injection. Why install a diesel that doesn't have good fuel economy?
I don't know anything about the ford/mazda engines.

I'm not sure if I 100% agree: a TD27T4 (non intercooled) Pathfinder of mine pulling a total of 4 metric tons GVM (2 tons vehicle plus 2 ton double axle trailer) was getting 18L/100, that's not bad for a loaded rig.

Unladen on 1.6 tons, the fuel consumption was around 9L/100km (11km/L). I reckon 12.5L/100 in an unladen 110. That's good consumption, I'd have it any day.

I can pick up the QD32ETi (with semi electronic pump) for AUD$2000, and the TD27T4 mechanical for around $1600. The QD32ETi will happily put out over 100Kw and 330Nm. That's at the top edge of what I'm happy exposing the LT85 to anyway.

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Originally Posted by jakeslouw

At 5km/L and AUD$1.30 per liter for petrol over here, I've been mulling a diesel conversion for some time.

My opinion is that if I can get even 8km/L out of the diesel, I'd get my money back sooner rather than later. My daily commute is 150kms. Getting to the sea from my house is a 600km trip.
Even in an unladen V8 110, I'd be seriously out of pocket before I even crack open a cold one at the beach.

Here is the list of engines I'm collecting info on:

Isuzu: 4BD1T, 4BG1, 4HF1, 4HG1T, 4JB1T, 4JG2
Toyota: 13B-T, 15B-FT, 1KZ-TE
Nissan: TD27T, FD35T, QD32ETi, FD42, FD46
Mitsubishi: 4M40, 4M41
Mazda/Ford: WL25, SL35, TF40, TM46, XA25, HA30

The BOLD units are those that I can find an adapter for.

All of these engines (except for the TD27T and WL25) would provide as much, if not a bit more, HP and torque than a 300TDi. The two I have just mentioned are on a par with the 300TDi.

Sure, I can sell the 110 V8 and buy a 300TDi. Except most of them are now getting towards serious mileage. And then I'd still only have a 300TDi. And a 300TDi would cost me an extra AUD$3,000.

So for AUD$3,000, I can put in a nice strong TDi and hope the LT85 split case holds itself together.

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Jake, see the light get a TD5, Bob