Thread: DIY - Steering guard

Originally Posted by DeeJay

Frank, Thanks for posting this, a lot of usefull info there.
My pennyworth is the guide should be ( & obviously is) related to a work environment. The wording states that use of a shackle in the fashion discussed here will lead to it's eventual failure,

Shackles are designed to take vertical forces only. Diagonal forces will strain the shackle and lead to

eventual failure.

This makes sense.
I was feeling lucky there until I read that word, as I have been guilty of mis-using shackles since 1970 & read your comments as valid for recreational applications. I have also lost a few shackles ( & had a few disapear into other travellers kit) which might have avoided long term failure.
I shall continue to mis- use my remaining shackles in the confidence that, sensibly used ( I put the threaded side towards the direction of pull so the pin won't bend the bullbar) they are highly unlikely to be the "weakest link" in a winching/ snatch situation & that the likes of ARB have taken usage into consideration when designing these things.

Regards, David

ARB would buy their shackles from a shackle manufacturer, if you read the post about the shackle failing in the scenario in WA, where my Son's Stage 1 was damaged, complete with photos, you will see the shackle was the weakest point (13 tonne Guaranteed Breaking Strain (GBS), Snatch Strap 8 tonne GBS). The snatch starp survived, the shackle didn't because it was mounted wrong, Regards Frank.

Originally Posted by dullbird

No it hates me wont open..I got your message though email sent

It is only 2 pages so attached-- The pics would not copy though..

Shackles

Shackles are a portable link, used for joining various pieces of lifting equipment. The two main shapes for
load lifting are the ‘dee’ and ‘bow’ shackles. Almost all shackles are made of round bar and have circular
eyes. The pin of the common shackle screws directly into one eye and should preferably have a collar. In
some shackles, the pins pass clear through both eyes and are secured by a splitpin forelock (ie split flat
cotter pin) or nut and splitpin.
Shackles are made to AS 2741

Shackles. The grades range from grades L and M for small dee and bow
shackles to grades S and T for large dee and bow shackles. In order to eliminate projections, shackle pins
are sometimes counter sunk flush with the eyes.
The pin and forelock shackle is a safe shackle but is mainly used for standing rigging such as guys.
Always use the correct size shackle pin. Do not use a nut and bolt in place of the proper shackle pin. A
bolt that does not fit tightly is likely to bend and break.

70

Condemn a shackle which is worn either in the crown or on the pin by more than 10 per cent of its
original diameter.
Do not use a shackle or pin which is bent, strained, deformed or damaged. Tiny microscopic cracks
may have developed during deformation. These can extend under quite small loads and lead to
complete failure.
Screw shackle pins should be tightened then loosened very slightly, so that the shackle pin can be
unscrewed when the weight is released. If the pins are tightened and the strain is taken on the shackle
the pin often jams and is difficult to unscrew.
Where shackles are subject to vibration such as on luffing bridle pendants, mouse the shackle pin to
prevent the pin from unscrewing.
Shackles are designed to take vertical forces only. Diagonal forces will strain the shackle and lead to
eventual failure.
If any small object such as a single sling or another shackle is placed on the pin the shackle will ‘cock
bill’ or cant. To stop this happening, pack the shackle pin with washers or ferrules to keep the load in the
centre of the pin.
When using multiple slings, always use a bow shackle large enough to accommodate all of the eyes safely
on the bow. The pin of the shackle should rest on the hook.
Do not use an unmoused screw shackle where the pin can roll under load and unscrew.
Shackles must be branded with the WLL. Do not use a shackle without the WLL clearly marked,
for load lifting.
Knocking and leverage can cause vibration which works the pin out of the shackle. To prevent this use the
forelock, or the pin with the nut and cotter pin.
Plate shackles are a special shackle made from steel plate with a hole drilled in either end. Two plates
are joined by placing bolts through the holes. Plate shackles are used extensively for joining crane
luffing bridle pendants. Make sure that the nuts have split pins and that the split pins are spread to
ensure safety.

Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

Just how good a fixing mechanism is this/is required?

To my untrained eye, this would not? be suitable for fixing as a stand alone to a bull bar for example and might require an angled bracket onto the chassis rails, plus the bolts don't seem all that substantial, even if they are high tensile.

I'm interested because I read these and similar posts AFTER making enquiries on this site about front recovery points and did not become aware of the availablility of swivels until AFTER I had purchased a couple of vertical section/horizontal shackle bolt pieces of equipment. Given the now obvious advantages/existence of ideally swivel or at least vertical shackle bolt options, I'm surprised they are not hammered/expoused more for the benefit of newbies when they ask questions.

I'll tell you how I am going to do it, I will remove bull bar, I will brace from inside of 1 chassis rail to the other, I will then plate the chassis rails back as far as I can/need to. I will cut a 1/2" plate to weld on the end of the boxed, braced and plated chassis rails, I will weld a large (Thick) nut (thread to suit 3T collared eye bolt) to the plate, I will then drill the plate and run a thread tap through the nut and plate, giving me at least 1 1/2" to thread the eye bolt into, then weld it (2 off) to end of chassis, nuts inside.
Mark out a corresponding hole in bull bar for eyebolt, modify bar brackets to fit fatter chassis rails, refit bull bar, fit collared eye bolts (both sides) and use shims/washers to adjust eye bolt hole to the vertical plane. You will notice that a 3 tonne collared eye bolt has a big hole for the pin, which is great because it will allow vertical movement ((up/down) of the shackle body, if anybody is worried about me running into them and tearing their limbs off with my eye bolts, fear not, as I will remove them into my recovery gear bag until I next venture off-road, Regards Frank.
P.S. as I don't have anyway of drawing this setup, maybe someone who can could do it from my description and post it here or recovery, maybe this all should be in Recovery, what d'ya think Mods, Regards Again.

Originally Posted by Tank

I'll tell you how I am going to do it, I will remove bull bar, I will brace from inside of 1 chassis rail to the other, I will then plate the chassis rails back as far as I can/need to. I will cut a 1/2" plate to weld on the end of the boxed, braced and plated chassis rails, I will weld a large (Thick) nut (thread to suit 3T collared eye bolt) to the plate, I will then drill the plate and run a thread tap through the nut and plate, giving me at least 1 1/2" to thread the eye bolt into, then weld it (2 off) to end of chassis, nuts inside.
Mark out a corresponding hole in bull bar for eyebolt, modify bar brackets to fit fatter chassis rails, refit bull bar, fit collared eye bolts (both sides) and use shims/washers to adjust eye bolt hole to the vertical plane. You will notice that a 3 tonne collared eye bolt has a big hole for the pin, which is great because it will allow vertical movement ((up/down) of the shackle body, if anybody is worried about me running into them and tearing their limbs off with my eye bolts, fear not, as I will remove them into my recovery gear bag until I next venture off-road, Regards Frank.
P.S. as I don't have anyway of drawing this setup, maybe someone who can could do it from my description and post it here or recovery, maybe this all should be in Recovery, what d'ya think Mods, Regards Again.

If you brace across from one chassis rail to the other, won't you then preclude any possibility of a future winch? I would have thought 2 pieces of strong/thick angle iron turned side on (vertical?) attached bolted to both the bull bar and each chassis rail would provide an adequate base for the 2 swivel bolts - then yes concentrate on being satisfied the pull on the eye bolts is satisfactorily resolved.

Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

If you brace across from one chassis rail to the other, won't you then preclude any possibility of a future winch? I would have thought 2 pieces of strong/thick angle iron turned side on (vertical?) attached bolted to both the bull bar and each chassis rail would provide an adequate base for the 2 swivel bolts - then yes concentrate on being satisfied the pull on the eye bolts is satisfactorily resolved.

Gavin, yes that would work, but I have a good 150 to 200mm of room behind my existing winch, I intend placing a peice of heavy C channel 150 x 75 directly behind the winch and weld it to 6mm plate bolted to the inside chassis rail through to the outside 6mm plate which in turn are bolted to the bull bar. The 1/2" plates and nuts will be welded between these 2 plates (each side), so it will be removable.
This way there is no real load on the bull bar and the load on the chassis will be shared by at least 4 through bolts each side and the H/D C channel, if I had a scanner that worked I could draw it up and show, but I believe you have the idea, Regards Frank.