Oh and sounds like you have had some experience in the racing game uninformed ? If not your very interested in it too:D
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Oh and sounds like you have had some experience in the racing game uninformed ? If not your very interested in it too:D
No experience, but read a bit with interest. Best way is to pic a class and get the rules. This will determine your build.
Best for driving on road, off road and touring, just what the vehicle was designed to do and it does it better than any other stock factory setup, that's what, regards Frank.Quote:
Originally Posted by uninformed
That's a good idea !Quote:
Originally Posted by uninformed
This is a good point and mostly true but there is always room for improvement! I'll post a pic up of my county soon just so you can get the jist of the stage I'm at. In my opinion the Aframe design is good but spoilt by the ball joint which limits the potential flex and also wears out quickly but other than that the rear end is good. I believe the front end can be improved on a lot but keeping in mind it will eventually be unregisterable strictly offroad use!Quote:
Originally Posted by Tank
True, all LR's since the first RRC that the coil set up was designed around has been compomised to some degree by using those components.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tank
As soon as Cheif said the words "coil over" I figured his intentions were other than what Spen King had in mind.
The rear end is very good, There are a few guys on Pirate, Frankenrover is one, he runs MOG 404 alxes on his 110 with rover A frame at rear and custom 3 link up front. Im pretty sure he has coil overs in the front only. This is a very well sorted rig. Flex is great. They dont have a problem with the ball joint when set up right. Get a MD ball joint from M R Automotive, it will last longer.Quote:
Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f
Now If I was looking at class 8 high speed stuff, I personaly would be looking at a used 130. I would run a chev V8 and move it back so at a minimum the front drive pulleys are behind the front axle. Depending what gearbox and room available I would also look at devorcing the T/case to move it back some more. Propshaft length is someting to be considered. I would keep it as low as possible with as much up travel as possible. This may mean so chassis work, and atleast youd want to go to hyd bumpstops. I would run custom made long radius arms up front and custom long A frame and trailing arms at rear. You can probably get away with rover front diff and Sals rear. Your housings will need to be built very well. Widen track with the hosuing not the wheels. loose the cab top and run a cage with lid. Regardless of what you do, if done right some of your biggest $$$$ outlay will be shocks. They are very important in racing, even to the point of making only ok link geometry work well. If serious you will probably need 1 coil over and 1 bypass per wheel.
Wow you sure you don't own a comp truck ? Haha well I like most of that but I don't want to go a 130 and I don't want anything to do with a petrol motor at all so looks like I might have to tone it down to a different category...
I also don't like tuff trucks simply for the fact it's mainly aimed at rock crawling and a lot of unrealistic expectations!
I'll have to have a look at some other classes and see what is most suitable..
I was considering portals which would be the ultimate but at this moment they are not critical for the money spent but I would love to see picks of this vehicle if you come across some :) in the meantime I was considering something such as cal415's Dana conversion sals and Nissan front maybe.
Then end up something such as this
1983 Patrol in the USA (diesel) - Pirate4x4.Com
Some of the winch challenge stuff has speed in it, but also winching and you need good winch set up. Now are you just happy to compete or do you want to win??? as they say "if you want to play you have to pay" either way, how fast you want to go just depends on $$$$.
alot of the not top tear classes require the truck to be registerd and legal...yes alot arent, but who can say what the guys will let run or not??? If it is legal they cant really say no. You will need an internal cage no 2 ways about that. So that is tight in a landy but doable. There are atleast 2 guys racing 110's in high speed stuff. Not to much info out there but it is out there.
I have seen an OBC Nissan in person that had stock length RA up front and converted to a 4 link rear, TA were not much longer than a Rover. So IMO there is no benefit changing out to different links unless your going for length, then using the same principles as there already is a good starting point. The nissan had coil over and bypass rear with coil spring and bypass front. It was one of the better trucks...personally I think the suspension could have been better, more guys are going custom link set ups so they are leading the way for engineering approval etc. Each state is different though.
I'm liking this :BigThumb:
Well I have no interest in being the best I'm just happy to have some fun really.
I wouldn't mind to see some specs on these 110's you are talking about but I just can't seem to find anything :( it would probably be easier to just buy a gq patrol to start with but where's the fun in that ? :D
I looked at a Baja buggy in an old fellas shed at Sydney one day and its suspension was amazing having kings coilovers plus the triple bypass 3.5" kings on each corner but the bare frame cost 30k :(
The winch challenges might be more of a option then (poor hub seals and wheel bearings :()