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Thread: Shock rubber bush movement?

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    Shock rubber bush movement?

    Is this normal? The shockers have only done a few thousand kms. They make quite a lot of squeaking noise!

    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xy8kOYzn5j0]Shocker bottom rubber mount - YouTube[/ame]
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

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    I could be wrong...but that isn't tight enough. The shock is meant to move not the bush!
    The bushes are meant to give angular flex rather than vertical motion.
    I'm sure someone will correct me if i am wrong though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by isuzutoo-eh View Post
    The shock is meant to move not the bush!
    That was my thoughts! But I'm far from qualified...

    Just a matter of whether I need to buy new bushes or just try tighten those ones... ?
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

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    Tighten them up, they don't look too bad though they'll probably have a reduced lifespan. They'll do for a while at least!

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    A tip I picked up off I think either Simon (Slunnie) or Rick (130) years ago which I now swear by on landies.

    For pin bushes ie, the front dampers and rear damper lower bushing. Use a factory rubber bush closest the damper and a polyurethane bush at the furthest location.

    So on the rears, rubber above axle mount polyurethane below.

    Rubber is good for better absorption on down stroke impacts, on up stroke there is no real hard impact. Bottom poly bush then gives a little more rigidity to system without too much as too shear damper pins. With this setup you can run relatively light preloads on the bushes but they dont seem to loosen and flog like in your video.

    To answer your question, yes the preload is too light. Nut should be tighter.
    For the sake of a single 19mm nut though Id be removing and replacing the bushes unless they spec out well. 5 min $5 job?

    FWIW


    Steve
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

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    Good idea... Thanks...

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    So after cursing at the nut a few times, I ended up having to dip the shocker nut in WD40 overnight before I could move it.

    Got the nut moving to find that it's at tight as it can go. End of the thread, and the bushes are like new. I know because I also bought some new ones and they look rather similar.

    My personal consultant of all things Landy related - my dad who owns an Isuzu 110 - tells me that can't be right. Either the wrong shocker was fitted or something else weird is going on...

    Thoughts?
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

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    Quote Originally Posted by roverrescue View Post
    A tip I picked up off I think either Simon (Slunnie) or Rick (130) years ago which I now swear by on landies.

    For pin bushes ie, the front dampers and rear damper lower bushing. Use a factory rubber bush closest the damper and a polyurethane bush at the furthest location.

    So on the rears, rubber above axle mount polyurethane below.

    Rubber is good for better absorption on down stroke impacts, on up stroke there is no real hard impact. Bottom poly bush then gives a little more rigidity to system without too much as too shear damper pins. With this setup you can run relatively light preloads on the bushes but they dont seem to loosen and flog like in your video.

    To answer your question, yes the preload is too light. Nut should be tighter.
    For the sake of a single 19mm nut though Id be removing and replacing the bushes unless they spec out well. 5 min $5 job?

    FWIW


    Steve
    Or run Nissan Patrol GQ/GU shock rubbers (pin style) instead of poly ones for the furthest bush.

    They are a bigger diameter so don't flog out like the Landy ones but soft enough so they don't shear pins.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by roverrescue View Post
    A tip I picked up off I think either Simon (Slunnie) or Rick (130) years ago which I now swear by on landies.

    For pin bushes ie, the front dampers and rear damper lower bushing. Use a factory rubber bush closest the damper and a polyurethane bush at the furthest location.

    So on the rears, rubber above axle mount polyurethane below.

    Rubber is good for better absorption on down stroke impacts, on up stroke there is no real hard impact. Bottom poly bush then gives a little more rigidity to system without too much as too shear damper pins. With this setup you can run relatively light preloads on the bushes but they dont seem to loosen and flog like in your video.

    To answer your question, yes the preload is too light. Nut should be tighter.
    For the sake of a single 19mm nut though Id be removing and replacing the bushes unless they spec out well. 5 min $5 job?

    FWIW


    Steve
    I've done the same for years also on a RRC with a 2" lift. The angle on the rear diff mounts is too great for bush and cup longevity with even a mild lift.

    Another trick is to use Toyota cups which are much thicker than Rover. Get them from a 4x4 accessories place where they usually have a bucket of the things lying around (i.e. free) coz Toyota wanted $7 EACH when I did mine.

    You do have to enlarge the holes the cup flanges sit in slightly, but well worth it. 80,000 k's and all bushes still good.

    cheers, DL

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    Different brands of shocks take different depth bushes.
    It looks to me the bushes are simply the wrong ones for that shock.
    Find the brand of the shock and google the seller and get him to supply the correct bushes.
    Regards Philip A

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