Don't fit a bolt in the water seperator,buy the seal kit,$7 the last time I bought one and smear grease on the plug and fit.The plug is plastic so it snaps off before you ruin the housing thread. Pat
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Don't fit a bolt in the water seperator,buy the seal kit,$7 the last time I bought one and smear grease on the plug and fit.The plug is plastic so it snaps off before you ruin the housing thread. Pat
good point Pat - I've used bolts before because that's all I've hadQuote:
Originally Posted by PAT303
with the engine off wiggle the wiring to the low oil pressure switch, if you cant make the light flicker replace the low oil pressure switch IF that doesnt cure the flickering at low RPMS change out the oil and the filter, if that doesnt sort it then I have no great news for you... BUT..
going up a single 5w step in the cold oil side of the oil grade (got from 5/40 to 10/40) and if that doesnt sort it go up a grade on the high side (from 10/40 to a 10/45 which wont be availalbe so you'll need to go to 10/50 or more likely 20/50) and if that fixes it then its really close to either a big end and mains redo, rebuilding the oil pump, checking the opening on the relief valve and cleaning the strainer (in reverse order) to get rid of the light problem.
Have fun.
Mmm crank case pressure
When it is running take of the oil filler and if it chuffs like Thomas the tank engine you have crank case pressure
Or take out the dip stick while the car is running and if you get oil sprayed over you , you have crank case pressure.
This will cause oil pressure problems
And the oil light to come on at tick over.
Normal cause is piston rings or head gasket.
Thanks for the partly good news Dave. ;)
With the vehicle sitting at home I can't get the light to come on anyway. Even lowering the revs by turning on the air con - still no light. Based on yesterday, I will need to have the engine quite hot and low revs before I will get to light up.
Inspection of the fuel lines in the engine bay revealed nothing major. A very small amount of fuel is seeping out the No 1 spill return line at the injector. (The line that goes back to the lift pump). I assume this is a non-issue...
Tried Dave's wiggle test. Can't get the light to come on. If I disconnect the wire from the oil pressure switch, should the light come on? Stays off, even when disconnected...
the light comes on when theres a connection to ground, short the connector to the body of the switch or a nice clean bit of bare metal on the engine.
That should get it to light up.
Hi JudoQuote:
Originally Posted by Judo
I have just install 'Fred's' motor after fixing it's oil pressure and I hope your problem is only the incorrect grade of oil.
I pulled it down, as to find why the oil was not picking up and this was when the motor was cold, after being sitting overnight. I stripped the front off the motor and found some deep scores in the housing, where the oil pump sits against the side of it.
We have been speculating how these marks were made. It could have been accumulated carbon deposits that had balled up and caught between the oil pump impeller and the alloy housing. The particle that scored the mark would have been too large to pass through the mesh of the oil pickup.
To help diagnose the problem, I made an adapter for a oil gauge from a broken oil light switch, brazing onto it a fitting that came with the new gauge, if you want to do this test, but not be bothered with making an adapter, a suitable fitting can be found that is used to fit a oil gauge into a Volkswagen and this also fits the 300 TDi, thread size is M8 x 1mm pitch.
To recap. no oil pressure when cold and idling, then good pressure at working temperatures and revs, then the oil pressure drops right off at idle, I would be thinking about getting another timing belt rear housing and the oil pump that sits in it.
Also some slight marks in the housing for the oil pump, can be tolerated and are to be found in most of the motors that have done a lot of work, if after pulling it down and finding the marks are slight, then the big end and main bearings would need checking for excessive wear.
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrinklearthur
hey arthur, don't forget the pressure relief valve seat may be damaged or the plunger is not seating, this will cause the same symptom, no or low oil pressure at low engine speeds. doesn't take much, i had a td5 with this issue turned out to have a tiny flake of alloy swarf from when the oil galleries were machined out of the ally brace/ oil pump support assembly stuck under the plunger. a pick and a torch and all is good:)
jc
i would fit a mechanical oil pressure gauge and see how it hold pressure over a longer period of time, this will also tell you if the oil pressure is low on a rev when hot.
oil light comes on when there is still around 3-5 PSI