My 4.6 V8 Rebuild Thread

I was looking at doing the 4.6 and dropping it into the 101 landy.
Whisle the 3.5 is working so good there is no point in doing it.
I figure some thing like 3.5 k cost to renew the worn 4.6 and top hat seleeve, plus the time in lifting the old motor and dropping in the new one doing it correctly with new bits and up rated parts.
Then there is time needed to reset the carbys etc.
If the top hatted block you have can be saved , it will save much money.
Like you I currently have money issuses so it is completely off the radar for along time, specially while that Alvis lump is taking any excess time and the little bit of money.
I would look carefully at camshaft options and a after market timing chain with sprockets as the standard timing chain, camshaft and lifters seem to wear quickly.
Unless you spend big money trying to get the exhaust manifolds thrown away, then you have the right idea in going for a high torque, low rev motor set up.
I have the fuel injectors and manifolds etc still on my 4.6 and some wiring.
You are welcome to it as I will go the carby route.
Driving Ians 101 with the 4.6 I noticed not so much a improvement in overall power, but in off idle and low rev torque, remembering Ian had many issuses to still sort out with his motor.

Just one other point is a well sorted 3.5 is a great little motor being very reliable and able to get overall power improvements with in the breathing restrictions we have on the 101 exhaust.
Thats why I want to hear from anyone who has fitted 4/4.6 litre motor heads to a 3.5 litre motor.

Driving my 101 I start to feel the motor get asmatic above 4000rpm, so currently the best engine working speeds are 1200 to 4000 rpm on the 3.5.
My current gearing and tyres etc at the target crusing speed of 100kph is about 2400 rpm with O/D enguaged........and yes I need more torque.
I today had the 101 over the weight bridge and was supprized.
Near empty fuel tank, but with normal tools and fridge carried just over 2.4 tonnes........my 101 is a little bit too fat.

As you know you will most likely need to travel to get machining done.
If you choose Nowra, I can keep a eye on things etc as I drive past the local engine reconditioners many times every day and deal with them with day to day engine machining problems I have at work.
They tend to be cheaper than the Sydney reconditioners too and have good access to new parts etc.
You know where I am and can use my account etc.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 101 Ron

I today had the 101 over the weight bridge and was supprized.
Near empty fuel tank, but with normal tools and fridge carried just over 2.4 tonnes........my 101 is a little bit too fat.

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Just take the driver out of the equation and all will be fine :o.

Thanks to everyone for your initial input has been great.:) I will pull the block down over the next week or so and get it all cleaned up - remove the helicoil and check out the crack in more detail. Then move to stage 2 hopefully - hone and line bore and get the crank prepared.

I will post up some pics so the experts can review as things come along.

Oh - I will need to tag parts and note orientation in the engine etc - I will use cardboard tags on string but I want to also mark parts directly(like wreckers do) - what type of white crayon/marker is best for this noting the oily/greasy environment.

Cheers

Garry

Use a centre punch with the same centre punch marks on the bearing cap and block etc

Quote:

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Originally Posted by garrycol

Oh - I will need to tag parts and note orientation in the engine etc - I will use cardboard tags on string but I want to also mark parts directly(like wreckers do) - what type of white crayon/marker is best for this noting the oily/greasy environment.

Cheers

Garry

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I use Liquid Paper and a soft 2-bee pencil; it sticks well even to oily surfaces but won't survive washing,

Cheers Charlie

Garrycol.what exactlty do you mean when you say "hone" and line bore ?
this is the time to rebolt in the mains caps using ARP studs,adjust the registers and then a .002 line hone with studs up to full pressure.then a full static and dynamic balance is needed after you have worked out thr deck heights and requitred comp ratio.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 400HPONGAS

Garrycol.what exactlty do you mean when you say "hone" and line bore ?
this is the time to rebolt in the mains caps using ARP studs,adjust the registers and then a .002 line hone with studs up to full pressure.then a full static and dynamic balance is needed after you have worked out thr deck heights and requitred comp ratio.

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Hone the cylinder bores and if needed line bore the crankshaft tunnel if there is any alignment issues. I have no idea about the specifics that is why I am looking for an engine shop with Rover V8 expertise to set the various parts up for rebuilding.

At this stage before anything goes back together I need to pull the 4.0 down and find someone to farm the work out too.

Garry

If you're doing that also get the bores checked for alignment over the rod centres. If they are boring it oversize have them offset it to move the bores back to centre over the rod centreline.