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Well things have come to a halt already.
I took the crankshaft back out and put a conrod on the crank with the plastigauge and all come up OK.
I went to get the engine gasket kit to get the rubber T pieces etc that go in the rear bearing block but cant find the gasket set :mad:.
Now when I bought these bits I stored them in a corner in my bedroom. The cam is there, the ARP studs are there, the bearings were there but not the gasket set whch has not been opened. I have been getting into this nasty habit of actually putting things away when I use them and putting things away so I won't loose them and of course I cannot then find them where if left on the floor I know where they are.
So I need to find this gear before I can the the final job on the mains.
It is 41 here at the moment and about 35 in the garage so the break is welcome.
Garry
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After searching high and low I found the gasket set - hidden away in a cupboard in a spare bedroom - hidden so it wouldn't damaged - or find it :(.
Anyway crank and pistons now in. Pretty straight forward just a few problems getting the pistons in - the ring compressor seemed to have issues but all went in OK - engine turns OK.
My main concern is the amount of sealant inside the engine from the sealant around the rear bearing cap. Got most of it out but I am a bit wary of it. Caused issues when I rebuilt my 2.25 many years ago when the sealant blocked the oil pickup but picked up as I did not run the engine without the oil pressure light rigged up.
I now need to buy some lifters and get a new timing gear set and then the rest of the assembly can go ahead.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psb152a5f1.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps5635aa05.jpg
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Gary,
I noticed that you asked about needles for the Strombergs 175s. Are you intending to use these carbs? I will be very interested to hear how you go with these. I intend to run these on a 4.6 in my old 82 RRC 2 door to keep it looking original. Unfortunately I haven't got the skill or confidence to do my own engine build so am getting it built by my Landrover garage here on the Peninsula.
Julian
PS best of luck with your build!
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Julian - I still don't know :(. To simply move the carbs across would be the easy way and by far the cheapest - I have even found a great local mechanic who is familiar with the carbs, can get the needles and has a dyno to set the thing up properly. The only issue is I would have to use Megasjolt to run the ignition as I don't have a dizzy on my engine (maybe not one of my better decisions :()
However to go over to the 4.6 and maximise its potential I should go injection but at this time I don't have that - I do have a 3.9 manifold and injectors etc but I would rather use one of the 4.6 systems.
I have a lead on a Thor manifold/injectors and with a Megasquirt ECU it should be a good combination but expensive and I have to get it.
Any issues with sourcing the injection stuff and it will be the carbies - tuned up on the dyno and maybe look at injection later.
Cheers
Garry
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If you use the Thor EFI you will need to be careful about the selection of the timing chain etc. The Thor engine has a different cam sensor from the earlier models and as such, the body of the chain wheel on the camshaft has specific cut-outs designed to match the Hall-effect camshaft sensor... also the space inside the timing cover is less, so on both counts it precludes fitting roller chains sets etc. Forgive me if you already know this ...:angel::wasntme:
As for lifters and rockers: I ordered the solid steel rockers (matched), rocker shafts and lifters from Turners in the UK, along with a set of shims for use under the rocker posts to set the preload. Had I not already fitted the heads (ARP studs) I would have taken them back to the machine shop and got the push rod holes slightly enlarged to enable me to fit a set of adjustable pushrods (there's a post in the P38 section about the US supplier who provides made to order at a very good rate including postage). That way you can do away with shimming and set the preload exactly....
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Thanks for the information - this engine is going into a 101 so none of the sensors needed to run the system in a P38/D2 will be there. Hence a Thor ECU will not work - so maybe fitting Magasquirt or putting a Holly self contained injection system on.
I will be getting a standard 4.O timing gear set and standard lifters.
Cheers
Garry
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Pedro - there are some nice looking options in that link. I am not sure what sort of power a 4.6 on carbs makes compared to injection - if I had some idea it might make the decision a bit easier. Likewise not sure on what the difference is in a 3.9 Gems compared to a 4.6 Gems - again if not a lot in it I could use the 3.9 system I have.
As I said - carbs is easiest and cheapest - just time on the dyno, cost of various needles to try and $500 for a Megajolt system to run the ignition. If torque was near a standard 4.6 that would be great but I don't know what the result would be.
Cheers
Garry
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There are some really good remarks about Su's and low end torque,,
In top end HP I dont think theres that much between (good) carbs and injection.
have you worked out your gears yet?
how many revs at 100 kays?
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I don't need extra low end - even the old 3.5 has plenty at the bottom end but runs out of puff at the top end. Just going to a 4.6 will give even better low end and I have a cam that produces torque a little bit higher in the rev range so it should come on line at cruise speed where the current engine dies when it sees a hill.
Revs at 100kph will be about 3000rpm with overdrive in and about 3500 or so with no overdrive. I will put in .96 transfer case gears so that will bring revs down a few hundred.
The 3.5 will not pull the O/d unless conditions are ideal where the 4.6 will manage it OK.
Cheers
Garry
