My 4.6 V8 Rebuild Thread

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Originally Posted by p38arover

I have two.

How to PowerTune Rover V8 Engines by Des Hammill

and

Tuning Rover V8 Engines by David Hardcastle

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Originally Posted by MacMan

The gudgeons should be fine so long as they don't end up with damaged ends like mine did when the machinists knocked them about. :mad:

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Thanks Ron - I will google those and order if not real expensive.

And to address the MacMan quote - Ron can you remember how much work the 4.6 crank, pistons and gudgeons had done. At this stage I have not run the calipers etc over them but they look and feel good.

Cheers

garry

In addition, just do all the usual minor, mundane stuff like chamfering the oil holes on the crank/block journals, declutter the block interior of dags to help the oil return faster. Also, on my black, at the back it had been drilled and tapped for a crankcase breather. This I have ducted into a catch can with the rocker cover breathers. Catches about 250ml over 6mths and also collects condensate as well (by both it should and from what was in it when drained.

Welding of the block is now all done - both walls reinforced and the corner of the block all reinforced - and was relatively cheap.

Area is still a bit daggy but the engine rebuilder will clean it all up decking the block, redrilling the head stud hole - and installing an an insert (just to be on the safe side).

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...m/P8100129.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...m/P8100134.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...m/P8100138.jpg

When I have the head studs, main bolts etc I will be down to the engine builder to get the block machined and crank etc ground as necessary and then assembly can begin.

The block is now with the engine builders to get the hole redrilled and tapped and a light decking. The engine builder has said he would prefer to insert a helicoil rather than an insert as the helicoil needs less metal taken out to put it in. The bores will get honed at this time as well.

This block was a thor engine with coil packs and as such the cam shaft is not set up for a dissy. So I discussed with the builder the pros and cons the original thor injection and coil packs vs the 3.5 carbies and dissy. Clearly the performance offered in the Thor configuration is greater than the carbies but in the view of the builder there is not a huge order of magnitude of difference particularly taking into account costs (I have all the carby setup). I need to make these decisions soon as it will determine what camshaft I use.

At this stage heading towards staying with the carbies suitably jetted etc and using some sort of modern dual profiled ignition system (MSD) to allow efficient use of gas and petrol. The 3.5 has adequate low down torque but for the 101 is lacking around 2500rpm to 3500rpm on the highway - so with the 4.6 if I can maintain the low down torque that will be Ok but I will want a cam that will maximise torque at highway cruising speeds so maybe a mild performance cam rather than a standard 4.6 will be needed.

So when I get the block back the 4.6 crank, conrods and pistons will go in for assessment and grinding/balancing if needed and then assembly will start.

Garry

Would the thor manifold fit under the 101 covers? Plus where the coil packs usually sit is a right royal pain to access in a D2 let alone a 101, though may be better.

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Originally Posted by clubagreenie

Would the thor manifold fit under the 101 covers? Plus where the coil packs usually sit is a right royal pain to access in a D2 let alone a 101, though may be better.

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I haven't really investigated this yet but should fit under the engine cover - the older style 3.9/4.6 Plenium fits with a mod to the gear lever. No idea about the coil packs but there is a fair amount of space around the top and upper sides of the engine.

Garry

The 101 has a low profile inlet manifold , even for a carby motor, and is the reason why 101 inlet manifolds are different from a early range rover one.
The difference is not much and is hard to pick by eye.
The quick play I had with Iains 4.6 101 over 12months ago running the way it was then, showed a all round performance improvement, but the punch off idle and down low was much greater than normal.......ie torque.
If going for the Thor check and measure carefully.

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If going for the Thor check and measure carefully.

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.
Ron, be aware that the highest point of a Thor is the throttle body, and it is at the extreme front LH of the engine. You also need room for a hose and the MAF. I don't know if you can reverse the manifold but maybe.

Regards Philip A.

Sorry, wrong thread..

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Originally Posted by 400HPONGAS

Freestyler,you should read the entire thread from the beginning ,then you might notice the sleeves and cracks
The "oil gets way to Hot in these engines " Pray tell ,what engines are you comparing it with to make that assumption ?What is the correct range for oil temp anyway ?
Is this with or without the standard oil cooler arrangement ?
The oil should be cooler than the water ??? What , never in any engine ever manufactured would that apply !!!!!By the way ,the 135c oiltemp for 105 Water temp is about standard !
How does the 101 have higher capacity (bigger sump and cooler perhaps?),Higher pressure system ?(screwed up relief valve ,that makes heaps of heat)
If your dads engine only gets the oil temp to 80C , then you better tell him to replace the oil every 100 K , as it will be totally imulsified, and his engine bearings will be crap.
Sandwich plate for the ram tubes ,gives you more torque , absolute rubbish, at the best it may pull the torque curve back 50 RPM , waste of time.
A 175Cd Stromy with the right needles can easily feed 225CFM ,2 will get you 400CFM ,way enough for 300HP ,why waste time and money on EFI ?
Only spent $10000 ,is that good or bad ?

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Obviously I don't know what I am talking about, by the way Dad truck ended up blowing a head gasket and the T sleeves had shifted on the bottoms side but not the top????? maybe I will just keep my mouth shut in the future!