D2 stake nut - rear axle

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Originally Posted by slug_burner

Did you do both the extension and the breaker bar? I see three pieces.

thats the extension bar and breaker bar socket i snapped. :eek:

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Originally Posted by Gillie

Been there and done that. I ended up borrowing an electric rattle gun from a bloke who has earth moving equipment. It was sickening how easy it did it after having gone down the same road you have just gone down.

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thats what i am thinking.

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Originally Posted by p38arover

I have a 3/4" drive torque wrench rated to 300 lbs ft (407Nm) and 3/4" drive socket set if you need them.

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cheers, i have another plan of attack to try but will be in touch if needed.

plan is to remove the hub with axle attached. then take hub/axle to local mechanic and have them release the stake nut. switch the new axles into the hub and have them tighten the new nut to required torque. :cool:

My self and younger brother mick(cal415) have had similar fun breaking and bending 1/2 inch drive bars on stake nuts i ended up drilling a 3/16 hole through the side wall of the nut then split it off with a chisel.

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Originally Posted by dswatts

When I did mine I used a 1.5 m cheater bar on the end of a ratchet and bounced on it till I thought it was tight enough, 25000 ks and still ok.
Might not be the correct procedure, but it's bloody tight.

HTH

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Quote: "I used a 1.5 m cheater bar on the end of a ratchet and bounced on it till I thought it was tight enough,"
You really know how to look after your tools, would love to see the result when your Ratchet spits the dummy, regards Frank.

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Originally Posted by jocky

hello Yorkie. i purchased a second hand Warren & Brown torque wrench rated to 400Nm for $200 from cash converters. they are $400 new. Repco used to sell them. this brand are the best to buy as you dont need to calibrate them. if you plan on doing work on your own vehicle a torque wrench is a sound investment. Even if you change your own wheels you should torque up your wheel nuts to 120Nm. if you do decide to buy a wrench dont purchase cheapies from the auto retailers as they sell the dial units which go out of calibration easily, generally rated to 200Nm for $70.

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I got my W&B torque wrench from Cash Convertors after some low life stole it and sold it to Cash Convertors, I had my name and license # engraved on it and they didn't want to give it back till I involved the Cops, ****ing fences for junkies, Regards Frank.

so made some progress!, few curse words and trips to the tool shop and got this far.

the small hub securing screw was a pluck to remove, ended up releasing with drift.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/05/662.jpg

removed the abs sensor
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/05/663.jpg

removed both axles, something missing there? :(
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/05/664.jpg

lookie whats hiding up there.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/05/665.jpg

now need a stick with magnet to see if the piece in the diff will come out nicely, tried a gentle push from the other side but no go, might need more of a tap?.
enjoying the learning process and ashcrofts get a big wrap, order hd axles monday, they tried to deliver today but no-one home so now tomorrow. :cool:

Depending on the diff you won't get past the spider cross shaft with anything wider than fencing wire. Find a bit of metal tubing to guide your fence wire through for an axle stub prodder, or a nail welded to the end of a bar of some sort...

thanks, its detroit. will try those tricks in daylight.:)

All fixed, the piece in the diff came straight out, then I spent most the day trying extract that piece from the pumpkin. In the end a pice of fencing wire hooked it out. :)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/05/522.jpg

So then just a case of putting it all back together and all seems well.
Big thanks Ashcroft Transmissions and Jmac Diff & Gear for undoing the stake nut and retorque the new nuts.

While it looks like a clean break, I think I'd be tempted to remove the centre to make sure there's nothing left sitting at the bottom.