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Thread: Crimping tool for electrical terminals

  1. #1
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    Crimping tool for electrical terminals

    I came across this 8 tonne hydraulic crimping tool, and was wondering if those in the Know would consider the pressure adequate for making battery-leads. Especially thicker ones for larger diesels..

    NEW 8 TON FORCE HYDRAULIC CRIMPER CRIMPING TOOL WITH 9 PIECE DIE SET - Hydraulic Crimpers - Construction

    Price is similar to buying a manually operated one.

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    been using one for ages..

    works well
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  3. #3
    Davo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Thanks for that. I didn't know these existed, and that mob have them on eBay as well, so I just bought one!
    At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.

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    I use one all the time, so far so good Good price!

    JC

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    I dont have one...

    but then when I make leads I just sign out the one from work.


    at that price, thats great. I'd be tempted to get the 12T one as its the same price and buy an extra die later if its a size you need.
    Dave

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    I dont have one...

    but then when I make leads I just sign out the one from work.


    at that price, thats great. I'd be tempted to get the 12T one as its the same price and buy an extra die later if its a size you need.
    hey dave, the 8 t is waaayyy grunty enough!! we do lots of winch and d/b instals using this tool, 3b&s cable and 10mm lugs etc are no problem.

    jc

  7. #7
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    yeah, buttt some people also like to swage SWR with them and you need 10T for that....

    Besidess which.

    "Its not overkill, its a starting point."

    yes, you may quote me on that.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  8. #8
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    Excellent interest & info...

    Tempted to go for the 12 tonne one, simply on the basis that it would better handle the biggest sizes, such as 90mm or 120mm.
    But it would be nice to be able to properly crimp a 6mm auto terminal as well...

    The plot is... I've been conned (nicely) into doing the wiring for a salvaged boat, a 30-foot " Bin..." . oops, - BAYliner

    This one's had a fire starting at the helm or DC panel on the deck below, and its the third one I've heard of starting there. I suspect dodgy connections or wiring, as there's too much evidence 'against' an insurance-fire.

    I can see the battery cables to be at least 70mm2, (or "O" gauge) maybe 90mm, as the longest run is going to be 4.8 metres.

    Just want the best tool for the job, so that it gets done 'right'. - no scrimping on the crimping and NO fires either.

    Interestingly, all the earth cables, ie bonding only between engines and stern fittings etc, is 8mm green/yellow DOMESTIC 'earth' cable. Not tinned or ends covered...

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by superquag View Post

    Interestingly, all the earth cables, ie bonding only between engines and stern fittings etc, is 8mm green/yellow DOMESTIC 'earth' cable. Not tinned or ends covered...
    thats a legal requirement as the ship can be put onto shore power and have its own internal 240vAC plant if its anything like the gear we have it gets test and tag anually and is operator inspected every 3 months. (allegedly operator inspected)



    dont cock around on the electrical grease and heat shrink sealing goop if its going into a boat.

    I've done multiple dozens of leads for small boats that have had the copper and the crimp corroded apart by means of oxidisation of the copper (the less noble metal corrodes away from the more noble one) causing failure of the crimp.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post

    dont cock around on the electrical grease and heat shrink sealing goop if its going into a boat.
    I've done multiple dozens of leads for small boats that have had the copper and the crimp corroded apart by means of oxidisation of the copper (the less noble metal corrodes away from the more noble one) causing failure of the crimp.
    You mean don't use 'double-wall' heatshrink on the heavy battery terminals ???

    Why not ?

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