Page 1 of 6 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 55

Thread: A-frame ball joint

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    5,101
    Total Downloaded
    0

    A-frame ball joint

    hey all,

    what is the procedure for removing the cast fitting from the ball joint on the rear diff housing. Ball joint is fine and I dont need it removed from housing (unless that is part of the procedure) I just need to get the cast section off the ball so I can replace it for the one that comes with my load leveller to fit the unit up.

    any special tools required.

    I could not find it in RAVE

  2. #2
    Bearman's Avatar
    Bearman is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Hay Point
    Posts
    4,043
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Probably just a reasonably sized knockometer is the main tool. Take out the split pin, undo the nut with a socket and give the housing a good belt where the ball joint goes through it. Usually pops out easy. If not use a hammer and brass drift. If you are talking about the bit that the ball joint is pressed into you need a press or heat to remove it.
    Last edited by Bearman; 20th July 2012 at 10:13 AM. Reason: extra
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    St Helena,Melbourne
    Posts
    16,770
    Total Downloaded
    1.13 MB
    Loosen the nut on the BJ and drive around the block, then just unbolt the center section with the BJ but support the pinion of the diff with a jack or stand so you dont have trouble fitting it back up.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    1,947
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I just did the ball joint on my 110, I supported the car on axle stands on the sway bar mounts on the chassis high enough so the rear wheels were just touching the ground. Removed the split pin on the ball joint, loosened the nut and gave the ball joint shaft a tap with a drift and hammer, that popped off eaisly.

    Getting the ball joint out of the casting however was an absolute bastard.

    Cheers,

    Tim

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    gold coast
    Posts
    426
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hey Serg ,
    Do you have one of Mal's adjustable BJ's or standard one if it's standard go to Rick's and grab a new and get him to press it in for you or give me a call on 0424705300 i have them in stock .
    Just bring down the BJ casting you want to put in the fender and i will press it in for you and then just replace the hole thing .
    Cheers Greg

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    5,101
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks Greg, I already have a MD extended BJ in my rig. The Load leveller I have alreay has a stock OEM BJ in it. I want to press it out and fit an extended one to it/in the rig. I actually found in my kit a MD jig for removing and fitting...all I need to do now is buy the steel and build my press (already have ram and pump)

  7. #7
    Davo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    2,595
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Do have any pictures of the MD jig? I actually hammered in a new ball joint because I didn't have a choice, and I could see why you need a really big press. Which I'll build for the next time.
    At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    5,101
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Its a very simple set up. From what I can GUESS, you use the larger plate jig to remove the ball. And the tube to press it in. Im thinking you take the cast section and bolt it in the plate jig, rear most hole. It sit over the middle plate and have the balljoint shaft line up with the hole.....The tube section just sits over the shaft section and presses it in



    Last edited by uninformed; 9th January 2017 at 07:10 PM.

  9. #9
    Davo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    2,595
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks for that. I can't quite work it out either, but I see what you mean. All I've seen in Land Rover magazines is that they cut off the mounting bolt tabs from the old balljoint, put something under it and press it out, and then pressing it in is simple enough since you have a flat face to push against.
    At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.

  10. #10
    85 county is offline AULRO Holiday Reward Points Winner!
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    adelaide
    Posts
    2,250
    Total Downloaded
    0
    NB the ball joints are not the same between thouse with and without load leveller. with is higher or longer.

Page 1 of 6 123 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!