TD5 Rotor lid filter drill/tap

Take out the bolts and put in screws with a Phillips head
Much harder to over tighten with a screw driver

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LandyAndy

I did put nuts on longer bolts last time,too hard and they obviously wernt tight enough as they are gone.
I couldnt get M6 Helicoils this morning.Ended up with M5 Nutserts which require a 7.2mm pilot hole in ally.It requires using M5 bolts to secure the lid which I dont see as an issue.M6 Nutserts required a 10.2mm hole which I wasnt prepared to risk.
Andrew

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noooo not nutserts... not in cast ally... thats bad, very very very very exceptionally "Id rather listen to a puma owner go on about stall control" levels of bad.

if you go down the nut and bolt route you need to go M6's again and secure the nuts with a fresh spring washer or some loctite.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

noooo not nutserts... not in cast ally... thats bad, very very very very exceptionally "Id rather listen to a puma owner go on about stall control" levels of bad.

if you go down the nut and bolt route you need to go M6's again and secure the nuts with a fresh spring washer or some loctite.

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Tapserts is what they are.
All fixed.
2 purring TD5s in the carport :cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool:
Andrew

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

shine your torch down the holes and they go straight through so as a stop gap you can just wind a longer bolt in and put a nut on it.

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Still using the long bolt and nut that I used as a stop gap...

There is no internal pressure - a couple of cable ties are a good temporary fix.
Terry

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rover-56

.... - a couple of cable ties are a good temporary fix.
....

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Or a 'permanant' fix, depending on the quality of your ties...and oil/filter change intervals! :wasntme: