Nice work, i am interested in knowing what globe life with them would be and total current draw for a pair if you found that out?
Hope my Daughters are as generous as you when they grow up! :)
Mick Visit there page on facebook they have recently done a video covering all that info they are from what I can tell, brilliant lights
if you go on their page and ask the questions I'm sure they would be more than happy to answer them
An overview on the design process of FYRLYT Driving Lights - YouTube
Cal415
Amps = Watts / Volts Therefore 150/12.7 (running voltage) = 11.81a each or 23.62a per pair.
Dont let the current draw bother you - even a 70's Cruiser can power that just fine.... :)
Cant find the figures for globe life, but I carry a couple in the glove box just in case... As I have with every light / vehicle I've owned.
I suggest you visit their web page and have a good look. Watch the video with Paul presenting...
A '70's landie comes with a 36A alternator. An '80's or early '90's 4BD1 powered landie comes with a 40A alternator.
A new hitachi 70A alt for a 4BD1 costs more than a pair of fyrlyts...
For many, that is a good argument for going the light bar (or HID) route if it saves an alternator upgrade.
Current draw is only a worry with me cosidering running several roof mounted spotties(4 lightforce 170s HID), 2 on the bar(XGT HID) and a light bar on my county, but it has a 120amp LS1 alternator
I found a British web site selling them.. £115.20 ($175.00 AU)
In stock... 70A Hitachi. Wood Auto Supplies Ltd :: LR170401
Still better than *decent* HID or Light Bar units ;)
Thanks for the insight - amazing considering a D4 runs 180A :D
My TD5 ran 4x 100w LF at 33A without issue, plus headlights, TD5 engine management, Radios, Fridge and no problems so you'll be fine...
Now, I keep saying this phrase but no one notices the comment and discusses it... USABLE LIGHT OUTPUT.
Hot spots everywhere aren't helping anyone!
I really need to get out and take some photos.... :cool:
Not saying you're wrong, and whatever suits you is what you should keep..
But I'm surprised... IPF are not a premium grade light... I would have thought the 4000's would have impressed you better...
Which IPFs are you running? And what bulb?
Most people start with IPF (get them fitted with the Bar etc) and then 'upgrade' as they get more 'serious'