standard height and slotted swivels

You're only talking about a couple of degrees and you're only planning to drive it like that for a short time, personally I wouldn't give it a second thought. There are probably hundreds of Rangies out there (not to mention all the other makes) with caster out of whack in the other direction that will never get corrected, so you will not be the biggest malefactor on the road by a long chalk.
Also, not only is there a small amount of material removed from the flanges, but if you add a couple of bolts to prevent it rotating, it will be stronger than original. Mine now has 9 bolts in each flange in place of the original 7, and vehicles 2 years earlier had 6.

By the way, if you don't have access to a mill with a rotary table, and are planning to do the slotting on a drill press like I did, I have a jig that I made to hold and rotate the swivels on the drill press table, you are welcome to use it.

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Originally Posted by Slunnie

Whats the arm method?

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cranked front control arms:angel:

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Originally Posted by POD

By the way, if you don't have access to a mill with a rotary table, and are planning to do the slotting on a drill press like I did, I have a jig that I made to hold and rotate the swivels on the drill press table, you are welcome to use it.

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Thanks Pete, but for the time it will take me to get around to doing it, i will be better off paying someone to do it. Keen??:D.
Oh and i have a box of Brake bits here if your still interested, i finally got around to pulling them off.(bits from my LSE):)

If you're paying someone to do the job, make sure they have the aforementioned mill with rotary table. It was a cow of a job in the drill press but hey, the price was right.
Can't have too many EAS spares, must catch up some time.

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Originally Posted by rick130

Slot them and be done with it.

All that happens as you've guessed is that steering self centring is increased and steering weight increases.
Basically you are increasing camber as the wheel turns. There is some jacking effect, but not enough to be an issue.

On certain race cars we used to run up near 10*, they were a bitch to steer, but the increased front end bite was worth it.

It's not an issue with power steering.

PS, if anyone has an issue with slotting, you can always scotch key the swivels too.
Potential, unlikely problem solved.

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definately, makes for a very safe installation and takes a few minutes only per side. i used hex key grub screws, looks neat too.

jc

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Originally Posted by POD

If you're paying someone to do the job, make sure they have the aforementioned mill with rotary table. It was a cow of a job in the drill press but hey, the price was right.
Can't have too many EAS spares, must catch up some time.

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Will just send them to LRA and get Andrew to do them, did my last set and did a good job.

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Originally Posted by Vern

Will just send them to LRA and get Andrew to do them, did my last set and did a good job.

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yes, thats where i sent mine.

jc

So what is the point of getting engineering and roadworthy done and then change the configuration afterwards?

Why don't you turn up for the engineering and roadworthy with the vehicle as you intend to set it up for use?

because it won't pass, or may'be it will at a great expence and a lot more work.