YarnMaster
Hi, guys, Just a couple of questions about brakes on a 1995 300TDI Discovery. Today I went for a NSW Rego Inspection but she failed the brake test. It was stopping quickly with smoke from the rubber, but did need high peddle pressure to do that. And it failed because the peddle pressure needed is too high according to my Mechanic.
I have recently changed the booster & master cylinder from our wreck, as it was taking too long to stop [booster alone did not fix the problem]. That improved the stopping distance, but not decrease the peddle pressure it needed.
We do have some vacuum, with a finger over the vacuum hose being sucked to stop air, but how much vacuum should be there?
1. Will the booster from either an 1985 or 1990 RRC fit it, direct bolt in?
2. If not both of the boosters being crook, what else could it be—remember it stops quickly?
Swaggie
John, the vacuum should be in the order of 12 to 15 inHg, and be reasonably smooth suction, not a pulsing chuff chuff. The pulsing means 1 of the valves in the vac pump has failed. Also, is it an ABS model? If so, that is pretty much what they are like, lowish pedal with average braking performance, better on the second pump.
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
YarnMaster
Find another rego inspector
AT REST
not sure about the booster interchangeability JF ....Originally Posted by JohnF
BUT.... to me it sounds like booster or vacuum pump
If your parts wreck is a D1 300tdi - why not change the vacuum pump first and then the D1 booster ?
ChatterBox
Get a new inspector, they have a very firm pedal from new anyway. You would be able to tell if the booster has packed up. And you can't exactly compare the braking performance to a D4. What kind of test are you doing?? I've never heard of a braking test apart from in engineering of modified vehicles,and none of our cars have ever had one done to them.
Will
Swaggie
SubscriberNaughty , naughty.
and none of our cars have ever had one done to them.
Your RWC mechanic should do one with every RWC.
They compare pedal pressure to retardation.
A read out is required with every RWC submitted or the results on line, which can be audited by the RTA( or whatever it is now called) . But some mechanics fudge it.
Regards Philip A
Last edited by PhilipA; 2nd October 2012 at 06:39 PM. Reason: added info
ChatterBox
Interesting....
I'll enquire bout this next time
Thanks for that
Although they are known to us, maybe they just trust that we look after our vehicles (which we do, very meticulously)
Cheers
Will
Master
My understanding is they actually have to be done. Whether or not they are done on the actual vehicle in question - well...
I can't imagine any mechanic skimping this part seeing as it has to be done one way or another.
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YarnMaster
the brakes are very firm of the first pump without giving it a second pump. push the pedal down and she scretches to a stop with smoke from the tyres. But it takes a lot of pedal pressure to do that.
Master
A simple way to test how well the vacuum booster is actually working - turn the car off. Depress the brake pedal repeatedly until its pretty well solid as a rock. Whilst keeping firm pressure on the pedal, start the car - if the pedal immediately softens and depresses the vacuum booster is functioning. If it stays firm or is quite slow to depress, the booster or vacuum pump have indeed probably had it.
If you're locking the tyres ..
What condition are the tyres actually in? They aren't old and hardened are they?
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