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Cams? There is one camshaft and that is driven by a timing chain behind the water pump (in the timing cover). Both the cam and chain can be worn, they can be checked by someone with mechanical skills, without major engine strip downs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh
Thanks guys.
The motor in question was re-built less than 20,000 km ago by a competent automotive company (that's not to say they're incapable of making a mistake). One of the cam lobes was badly worn so the cam was replaced. The crank as well.
When I got the vehicle back it seemed to go quite well. The people who ran the company suggested I get the Landy re-tuned by someone who had gas expertise.
It has now been tuned by three different people. Strange they should all miss this but they were all probably concentrating on mixture.
I don't recall the distributor being rebuilt so maybe I should get that done.
Any recommendations on who would do a good job?
bee utey, yes, cams.
I'm used to looking in the oil fill hole of a 1970 Mercedes 3.5 V8. They're OHC.
I forgot Landrover were more agricultural.
You perhaps should have evidence if distributor malfunction before rebuilding it, however a "Scorcher" brand distributor would be a good replacement for an old LR one.
Performance Ignition Services - Scorcher Distributors
Ok.
I took the distributor out. Before I removed it, I took a photo.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1351678066
The distributor was sent away and rebuild. When it came back, the keyway on the bottom was in a different position. One of the two ways it will go in fully is this
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1351678417
Now, the question is, What determines the position of the rotor? The gear on the shaft or the keyway on the bottom of the shaft?
If it is the gear (as I suspect), what does the keyway on the bottom drive?
The bottom of the distributor drives the oil pump. All you need to do is turn the oil pump a bit by hand until the drive engages at the right spot. You can use a piece of tubing, e.g. old tent pole flattened a bit to engage the shaft.
just get it all together leave the cap off, TDC on compression and then align the cap onto the dizzy and that sets the firing postion for #1 on the bold phasing then rotate the engine 2 full turns and stop at the indicated firing mark on the crank for static advance and set the points gap or hall effect marker and thats the engine statically timed.
Put #1 lead on in alignment of the rotor arm and then add the rest in firing order.
V8 timed for start.
ie. Look for any LUCAS markings. Dead giveaway for a dodgy dizzy.;)Quote:
Originally Posted by bee utey
Bugger! They've sent me back a stuffed dizzy. It's got "Lucas" written all over it.Quote:
Originally Posted by d@rk51d3
On both of my old rangies since i ran lpg most of the time i set the timing to 12 btdc which made a difference, 10 btdc was a good balance for dual fuel.