Thread: Wiring an EDIC motor and relay?

Originally Posted by steveG

Excuse the poor drawing, but here's what I could work out last night without pulling things apart too much.
Only thing I'm not 100% sure on is the wire colours for the actuator as I have different colours extending the wires to the relay, and the connection plug is hidden in a rubber boot.
I've used the original Jideco relay, but I've done this diagram to use a standard changeover relay.

It would be great if you could test out the circuit on the bench and post/PM any corrections so I can amend the drawing.



As a separate test to confirm which actuator wire is which, with +ve applied to the correct wire, and the other 2 wires to ground, the actuator should repeatedly cycle in-out-in-out ( I think !!).
Also, if you check the continuity between the wires, you'll find 2 wires that show a circuit, and one not connected to either of the others. The one that isn't connected is one of the ground wires. Apply 12v to the wires that have a circuit and the actuator should move and stop. You should then find that a different wire is open circuit - that one is the other ground wire. The third (common) wire is the +ve supply.

Steve

I bench tested this set up today and it worked just fine. Now I just need to mount the actuator/EDIC motor in the engine bay and work out the cable travel. Will be nice to get it installed.

Good to hear its working.
I mounted mine on the inner guard in front of the brake booster, and made up a bracket that bolted to the inlet manifold to attach the cable outer to.

I recall having to redo the swage on the end of the inner wire, but don't remember if the fitting that connects to the shutoff lever came with the actuator or if it was in the Stage1 bits I got with my engine.

Steve

I'll try to mount it in a similar spot - I have mounted a vacuum tank in that area and need to leave room for a snorkel tube to come through. I took a cable off an Isuzu truck that was next to the Mazda at the wreckers and it should hook up at both ends fairly easily.

The cable doesn't seem to travel far beween the "on" and "off" positions so there may be some work to do in setting up the attachment point on the pump lever. That's a job for next weekend.

I thought I'd previously documented some of this stuff but hadn't been able to find it.

Finally found this post in my conversion thread: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/1438001-post88.html

NOTE: the information in that post about the travel of the cutoff lever on the injection pump is wrong. I had the cutoff and throttle levers arse about - thankfully I confirmed and realised my error before firing it up or things would have been interesting

The actuator travel measurement is correct though.

I'll try and grab a photo tonight of the mount bracket I made up.

Steve

Well, this seems to be going on forever but life has a habit of getting in the way. I've got the EDIC motor in place, put in the wiring and it all works fine, so long as the engine's not running.

I've figured out the problem (sort of). When you switch the ignition on, the power goes to the relay and the cable extends as it's supposed to. When you switch off, power to the "86" terminal should be cut and the relay should cause the cable to retract.

Unfortunately the way I've wired things there is still a small amount of power running along the 86 wire when th ignition is switched off. I think that the "charge" light circuit may be connected to the ignition switched circuit that I've used to power the relay. I suppose I can either start pulling the dash apart again (really, really not keen) or run the 86 wire through a simple on/off switch (this would be a PITA, but may double as a sneaky anti-theft device).

Anyone got any other ideas?

Dave,

Isuzu county wiring diagram can be downloaded rom the Files section, download link below.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/local_link...&catid=3&id=64

HTH

Bojan

Cheers Bojan. Unfortunately I think my wiring now differs in a number of key respects from the original. It had been chopped around a fair bit over the years before I got it and started life as a V8 petrol. I'm thinking of doing a full rewire some time in the next couple of years, but for now I'd just like to get things working. I will have a look at the diagram though - it can't hurt!

Unfortunately Dave, I don't think there is a decent solution other than finding a better place to take the power feed from.
By the sounds of it you've picked the only wire on the entire vehicle that will give you the problem you've got!

If you REALLY don't want to pull the dash apart again (and you're suss about your car matching the wiring diagram) try having a prod around in the plugs near the firewall for something else that is only live with the key on, and hook into that.

Steve