Td5 clutch- pull engine or gearbox out ?

If you are like most of us poor mortals you are not a "Superbeing" and will find it hard, even using a floor jack to lower, manipulate, balance etc that heavy unit beneath the vehicle.
Though I have not done the clutch in a Td5, I have done the clutch in our '98 Tdi300 Disco, for the job I made up a little gantry style device that's feet sat on the floor of the car either side of the tranny tunnel, a 40x40 RHS beam linked the two supports and a long 16mm dia threaded rod with nut on top of this beam attached via a short piece of chain and an angle bracket at the centre of balance on the top of the gearbox/transfer case. With the front wheels of the vehicle lifted about 200mm off the garage floor I was able to easily unbolt the gearbox from the engine, slip the gearbox/transfer back and lower it to the floor beneath the vehicle and remove and replace the clutch with a new kit. Most of this done from within the cabin of the Disco, with the aid of the screw thread and a well lubricated thrust bearing and the added safety of having the load supported from above and pretty well balanced front to rear and left to right the gearbox was gently lowered to the floor and then easily and accurately raised again to be easily slipped onto the back of the engine after aligning the clutch/plate and splines.
I am sorry I do not have photos of the device and it would not help anyway as I have no idea how to post them anyhow, I am away from home at the moment but will try to get photos posted some time in the future as this gear was easy to make and so simple and safe to use it would be of benefit to anyone doing the job and far less fuss than removal of the engine (IMHO)

Good idea gazby. Not having seen access to the transmission from the inside of a Discovery, I'm really guessing, but I'd say it would be even easier in a Defender because you can remove the whole tunnel and the plate between the seats. I don't mind the odd bit of rooting around on the floor either ;).

James.

Cheers , thanks for all the info.

I've convinced myself when its time for the job I'll pull the engine out, seems a lot less stuffing about, and a lot less bolts to undo. I think I can unbolt the A/C compressor and put it to the side without losing any gas. Thanks to the previous owner my Defender is very leakproof, dosent leak dust or water, the floor is well and truly sikaflexed down and lots of insulation matting, I don't want to upset that exellent job.

Nothing else needs doing on the engine or transmission as per Blknight its 50-50 either way & the floor will be such a pain to undo - even just to remove the gear levers.

I took my Tdi clutch pedal spring conversion out and put the heavy Td5 clutch spring back as the Tdi spring wasn't pulling the pedal all the way back up, seems to have stopped the flare for now but I don't like the idea that the thrust race was getting constant pressure on it.

Might invest in a RedBooster

if you're getting clutch flare on take up

have you tried changing the flex line?

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

if you're getting clutch flare on take up

have you tried changing the flex line?

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no do they swell over time? It flows through easy when I bleed it but was almost impossible to push any fluid uphill from the slave with a syringe.

once its going along after the flare if Im going up a hill in and floor it the engine will start to labour rather than clutch slipping, so I guess it could be a hydraulic issue .

I'm in the process of doing the flexplate on a D2 V8, have stripped the centre console and am using a engine crane into the cabin to hopefully pull back lower the auto and transfer to hopefully gain enough room to replace the flex plate. Then swing it back in again.All subject to room to work. other wise I'll lower it to ground

Having said that I was at Deano's place a while back and on his defender he had the Radiator out and the radiator front support bracket off and it looked like an easy pull the motor out from the front.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by goingbush

no do they swell over time? It flows through easy when I bleed it but was almost impossible to push any fluid uphill from the slave with a syringe.

once its going along after the flare if Im going up a hill in and floor it the engine will start to labour rather than clutch slipping, so I guess it could be a hydraulic issue .

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that'd be my guess.

2 options

1. fast fill porting is blocked closed (which will make it a cast iron bugger to bleed)
2. hose is failing and is acting as a constriction point/