Thread: I would have been happy if my diagnosis was correct, but it need further investigatio

Can also recommend Autoflite. Ask for Jason.

They built a HD convertor to link a 350 and Ford C9 for my RRC and did a great job at a very reasonable price.

DL

Just a question in regards to TC, I have removed the TC and the shaft with the 2 slots that engage the pump, have rubbing marks on the tops of the slots. Rounding on the edge looks like wear not factory.

I have also noticed that if I shake the TC side to side or up and down it clunks, ( rattles )

If I stick my finger inside and push against the inner splines there is some movement sideways. Is that normal?
I haven't had much to do with TCs hence I don't know if there is freeplay movement.

And how difficult is it to inspect the pump for damage ?
The question is whether to pay to have a full rebuild, or I just replace the pump and convertor myself, big difference in dollars.

I'd imagine that if I instantly lost all drive it would be pump or TC.
There was no slipping or rough shifts before it happened, only the couple seconds of kangeroo hopping, so I doubt bands and valves etc need to be done, i found no fragments of anything in the fluid and no burning of the fluid.

Hi Its normal for a TC to 'clunk' if moved side to side , the clunk is the stator moving ie the smaller of the splines when looking into the converter, the stator is located by the smaller shaft on the autobox input and is the reason its a pig to locate a converter with the gearbox in situ, the stator drops down to a low position and cannot ( is bl***y difficult) engage with the input shaft.
Just be careful when rebuilding the pump, if you replace the CI pump housing be sure to use an identical one, there are two types and the drain back holes are in different locations, if you use the wrong one the front seal will blow out when you start up!!. Regards Ian Ashcroft

Originally Posted by Ian Ashcroft

Hi Its normal for a TC to 'clunk' if moved side to side , the clunk is the stator moving ie the smaller of the splines when looking into the converter, the stator is located by the smaller shaft on the autobox input and is the reason its a pig to locate a converter with the gearbox in situ, the stator drops down to a low position and cannot ( is bl***y difficult) engage with the input shaft.
Just be careful when rebuilding the pump, if you replace the CI pump housing be sure to use an identical one, there are two types and the drain back holes are in different locations, if you use the wrong one the front seal will blow out when you start up!!. Regards Ian Ashcroft

Thanks Ian now you got me confused.
The trans is a 4hp-22 serial ends in 765 - Land Rover part listing for the for the pump kit, Housing and pump drive gears is STC1836. So I would assume his is the correct pump.

The 4HP 24 uses a different pump part number TJM00030 is that what you are implying or are you saying there is a variation in each model also?
I haven't pulled the pump out yet, shining a torch in there shows the " lugs" are still on the pump, but looks like some of it is chipped off.

The situation is that I don't want to unneccessarily pay for a full rebuild if it's only a pump that needs replacing and a reconditioned TC. Rebuild prices don't include the TC that's extra again.
Before I pulled the trans I did run the vehicle at idle it made a noise of marble rolling around.

And I don't think with engine idling the marble rolling noise was from the box itself, it was coming more from the bellhousing area. Hence the suspicion it was a broken flex plate.
If the main transmission was broken, surely it wouldn't go instantly stop, you normally get slippage or difficulty in certain gears some prior indication.
The Kangeroo jumps is similar to if it was a manual and you tapped the clutch on and off whilst driving. So I'm leaning to a pressure of fluid coming on and off just on break down point.
I can't hurt for me to pull off the pump and at least check for shrapnel, or loose bits.
regards, Mario

my trick for installing TC's when the gearbox is out is to stand the box on its tail then lower the TC in from the top using 4 bolts with a centering strap on them.

I've been really lucky with putting them in horizonatlly, havent had to take more than about 4 goes to get it on happily, typically it only goes wrong when the person who owns the car isnt there and if they are then it just goes on first go.

(other than I'd be working on an auto) I'm lucky like that.

I don't profess to be an expert mechanic on Auto trans as I only sell parts, BUT this is what I found after removing the trans pump
Autopsy pics, don't read if you have a squirmish stomache
pic 1. Shows the pump as it was assembled, now I said I know little about Autos, but seeing a pin punch on the gear makes me assume that it must have another punch mark on the cog.


Oh, turn the cog over and there it is!, Im sure it is meant to fit like how I fitted it now




But what's this, A crack!!!
That shouldn't be there.


and whats with this, gouging, oh that's because some bozo put the cog in upside down, if the dot was facing up then the tangs would not be so far down for the TC slots to engage.


and whats this scoring on the on the sleeve?



So going to have to get a pump form UK, there is a TC building place in Ringwood who do custom builds and repairs, so will get mine recoed it still good enough inside.

The Auto reconditioner that supposibley did the rebuild should be hung up on meat hooks by his genitailer. What were they thinking

just call me Still shaking my head in disbelief Mario

PS to last post. it was advised to mark the bolt holes with had the smaller bellhousing attaching bolts, which I did with liquid paper.
It also advised to note which nuts had seller on the threads. Well all mine came out clean LOL
and as for bell house and engine dowells, I only had one fitted. The more I find the more it amazes me.

Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares

PS to last post. it was advised to mark the bolt holes with had the smaller bellhousing attaching bolts, which I did with liquid paper.
It also advised to note which nuts had seller on the threads. Well all mine came out clean LOL
and as for bell house and engine dowells, I only had one fitted. The more I find the more it amazes me.

Ding!

Good thing you're on top of it, you'll be a fully qualified LR owner-mechanic soon.