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Thread: Easy way to remove Crankshaft Bolt

  1. #11
    Judo's Avatar
    Judo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    I haven't done it, but I'm always scared someone will put the breaker bar on the wrong side.

    The pulley goes clockwise.. ?
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sitec View Post
    As camel_landy said, 3/4 socket set, on the front pulley bolt, turn the engine over by hand so that the breaker bar is poised about 30mm above the LEFT HAND chassis rail of the vehicle (kerb side!), and flick the starter. Make sure the fuel solenoid is disconnected if doing this. Never needed any special tools for crank pulleys! I did watch the apprentice years ago sellect the wrong side on a tractor and catapult the breaker bar across the workshop in the process!! Funny as at the time!
    Yep. This is how I have always done mine, although I did not bother to disable fuel solenoid. As soon as I hit the key I turned it off.
    Dave.

    I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."


    1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
    1996 TDI ES.
    2003 TD5 HSE
    1987 Isuzu County

  3. #13
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    Starter would have been the last resort. Didn't want to risk damaging the teeth on the torque converter ring gear, they don't look all that big, or unnecessarily stressing the starter. Apart from having to knock up the tool in the first place, it made the job quick and easy, and now its there for next time.

  4. #14
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    I've always used the starter method too...

    M

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spel1 View Post
    Starter would have been the last resort. Didn't want to risk damaging the teeth on the torque converter ring gear, they don't look all that big, or unnecessarily stressing the starter. Apart from having to knock up the tool in the first place, it made the job quick and easy, and now its there for next time.
    If you have your socket bar well away from the chassis rail you basicly give it a run up before it hits. This is then using a shock to loosen the bolt. Same principle as the hand tool featured in this thread.

    If you do it this way I can assure you that there will be no stress or damage to starter or ring gear.

    In my case the motor has probably half started by the time the bar hits the rail so engine torque is also helping.
    Dave.

    I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."


    1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
    1996 TDI ES.
    2003 TD5 HSE
    1987 Isuzu County

  6. #16
    schuy1 Guest
    1" or 3/4" rattle gun Ain't nothin' stands in the way of them babies! Thats how I do mine now. No more swinging on extensions or hoping the starter will do it.

    Cheers Scott

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by schuy1 View Post
    1" or 3/4" rattle gun Ain't nothin' stands in the way of them babies! Cheers Scott
    err a radiator
    Dave.

    I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."


    1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
    1996 TDI ES.
    2003 TD5 HSE
    1987 Isuzu County

  8. #18
    schuy1 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Whippy View Post
    err a radiator
    PFFFT! A minor detail I always remove my radiator now anyway, use the occasion to give it a good clean out of grass seeds and bugs from the core and a good back flushing. Also do the Inter cooler the same. I find it is not that much harder to take it all out and do it all at the same time as hang upside down like a flying fox ( which could be dangerous in these parts ) trying to fit belts and align and such like.

    Cheers Scott

  9. #19
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    Use a hole saw at the base of the radiator! Makes getting to the crank pulley bolt much easier. If you buy one with an extension, you can go through the front bumper too!!

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