My air filter housing has a drain nipple on the bottom that is tired so I'm replacing it with a rubber bung, and hopefully it will all be water tight.
My safari snorkel seals to the outer wing and has a drain hole, both are a bit dodge. Although I have sealed it all up pretty well, with the heater box on its hard to keep checking up on it.
So, should water get pulled into the filter housing I presume it will collect at the bottom of the filter housing and the housing would need to fill with water before it could be sucked through the turbo? If thats the case would it be worth installing a water detection sensor into the base of the filter housing?
I was thinking of getting a relay switch like this one
Kemo M158 water alarm/monitor switch module buy now - Conrad Electronic SE Water detection kits / modules Electronics Online Store
and sealing the detection wires into a rubber bung that replaces the drain nipple at the base of the filter housing.
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
hi Colin,
Yeah the rubber beak - they wear out and fail to close, so suck water in. I might be able to get a new one from somewhere but if water is getting in around the snorkel or filter joins it might help to know.
I've stuck a ton of sensors on recently, perhaps I'm getting carried away.
- Matt
It is called the evacuator valve. It is an integral and necessary part of the Donaldson air cleaner system. Go to any truck or diesel spares shop and buy a new one for very little. It uses intake pulses to dump (evacuate) the centrifugally removed particles that are spun out of the intake stream.
URSUSMAJOR
I like the sound of what your talking about but what I have is a standard defender tdi air filter housing with a rubber drain nipple at the base
like this
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...dwithvalve.jpg
I think you are talking about the " dump valve", which sticks out into the wheel arch. I believe its primary purpose is to "dump' dust & dirt from the bottom of the air filter housing. If I am going thru water which I think might be a tad high , I place a large paper clip over the "beak", and remove it when thru, If the dump valve is not perished or cracked, best to leave it, it does have a purpose, Bob [ Then again, I'm talking TD5 ]
I’m pretty sure the dinosaurs died out when they stopped gathering food and started having meetings to discuss gathering food
A bookshop is one of the only pieces of evidence we have that people are still thinking
I would not worry about the odd bit of water in the bottom of the filter housing,
it wont get past the element, plus will soon evaporate and get ingested as water vapour, you will probably even benefit from it.
Get better diesel performance with a water injection kit
Im still convinced the 'valve' on mine is to allow water out of the housing and not to dump dust and dirt. The lips of the valve are usually closed and perhaps pulled tight together when the airbox is sucking in air. If water got into the airbox it would be weighty enough to push past the lips of the valve and escape.
Mine is useless, the lips are always open, its tired. So thats why Im thinking plug the hole with a bung. Water detection probably over the top, because you coiuld just pull the bung after wading to see if any water found its way in.
However if you were in a situation where you were stuck for some time in a river with water over the bonnet you might want to know if water is getting into the airbox and accumulating to a certain level so that you could shut it down before hydrolock
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