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I think (assumption only) that T-seals are important as you will always have positive crank case pressure. If the T-seals are leaky, then crank pressure will spew oil mist out the back of the block and into the flywheel housing.
On a mates boat with a Volvo 6 cylinder diesel, we got a rust hole in the sump ABOVE oil level. The hole was probably 5mm in diameter. With engine stopped no leak. With engine running we churned through 15L of oil in less than 2 hours. It was not a geiser but a spray of oil mist into the bilge. We were 40nm from home and had to go for it. Dropped 10 mile short once oil level too low and all our spare oil had been returned to whence it came.
Same thing really, a 0.5mm hole in the T-seals may not empty your sump but it will certainly leak oil mist into the flywheel housing, which will then condense and leak proper.
Your issue though - is it coming out the flywheel wading plug or just around the back of the sump?
S
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Oil is definitely coming from the wading plug.....
What also confuses me about the T-seals is that they would effectively seal the sides of the cap, however the face of the cap has no seal at all...
This is what the T-seals looked like after they had been installed
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/04/1415.jpg
They looked exactly the same 2 weeks later, you can also see the nicely machined driveshaft flange.
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Matt I would be ****ed
that crank journal is gleaming - mine was when I got it machined but the rebuild took me 8 months from engine shop to completion. I touched the flash rust up with some 800 wet and dry but nothing like yours
(and my rear main is dry for the first time in three 300tdis and half a million km)
The face of the cap is sealed by the sump.
I guess my guess is its gonna be the rear main - what flavour seal did you use
gen-u-whine?
S
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Yup, rear main came from land rover in brissy, it was the only land rover part I used!
When I said face of the cap, I meant the other face i.e. between the cap and the block. AS you say, the outside face is sealed by the sump....
I think i'm just gonna drive it for a while, then pull the engine and do the rear main again, but put studs in the block and then use nuts to pull the seal on gently.....
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You should have used the after market jobbie that turners in the UK sell it works properly the LR one is crud .
My tdi has done 20k since full reco i used turner head and got all the internals from turners had to go 60 tho over on the pistons tho the crank was left std just had a clean up all my other bits came from DLS in the UK and all up just under $6400 tow in drive out im super happy.
Only work i did was arrange parts to be delivered to my mechanic and i had to weld a broken section of the fly wheel housing now i have a new motor from rad to clutch only things that never got replaced were turbo injector pump and vac pump every thing else new including matcing lime green IC hoses :D
