First of all I want to thank all of the members of this forum because you gave me a lot of useful information that helped me to solve few issues on my car….sorry, my tractor
And now it’s the time to give my contribution
(I apologize for my english)



As I had to change the engine mounts on my defender 110 and I haven’t found a thread with photos and detailed information, I decided to try by myself, and I took photos to help anyone who needs information.


There is no harm into lifting the engine without disconnecting any pipe, including the turbine as instead stated in the LR workshop manual, because most of the pipes are rubber pipes, and those that are metallic (eg. exhaust pipe) are long enough to be flexible as needed.

Tools:
wrenches, socket wrench, lubricant spray, wood blocks, high lift jack, 3 hours of your free time (when your wife is going shopping you will have more than 3 hours!)

The wood blocks I used were taken from the park in front of my unit when they chopped few trees; if you are not as lucky as me, one solution could be going to Bunnings and buy an MGP10 timber beam and saw it in pieces and link them together with some screws, but you have first to calculate the right height you need.
Think that you will have to lift the engine roughly 20/25 cm each side (one side at the time).
The right side mount is easy to replace, whereas the left one is more difficult because there is not much space due to the turbine and the exhaust system.
Spray the lubricant on the mounts bolts to wipe out the rust and wait 5 minutes.
Then remove the top nut of both the mounts.

Start with replacing the right mount.
Release completely the bolts of the right mount,


and release those of the left mount leaving a few threads of the bolt engaged because you need the left mount to be a bit loose to let the engine free to rotate on the left support when you will lift it (don't be deceived by the photo, there is no top nut just because the photo was taken at the end of the job; just focus on the red arrow).


Lift the car using the high lift jack, and put the wood blocks and any additional wood plate to reach the desired height; when replacing the right mount, be careful to put the supporting wood blocks on the right side of the engine sump as shown in the photo below to help the engine to rotate


Low down the car until there is a gap of 3 cm between the top of the mount’s bolt and the engine bracket because you will need it to be able to remove the mount (in the photo was the first try and you can see it was short off the bracket).


Remove the mount and replace it with the new one, put the bolts in place and screw them just to engage almost all the threads of the bolt, just leave a gap to let the engine settle in the right position after you will have changed the left mount.
Lift again the car on the right side and remove the wood blocks and low down the car slowly keeping an eye to the right mount and the bolt to be sure the bolt will fit in the bracket hole.

Now it’s the time to replace the left mount.
Release completely the bolts of left mount, lift the car and then put the wood block + any additional wood plate (remember to put them on the left side of the engine sump) as you did for the right mount.
Low down the car until there is the 3 cm gap between the top of the mount’s bolt and the engine bracket.
Now comes the tricky part, because you have to play with the mount, twist it, move it, push it, whatever you need to remove it, and when you put in place the new one it is even more tricky, and maybe it could be necessary to lift the car a little bit more.
I suggest to put in place the new mount from the bottom, it is easier and probably the only way, you just have to push the rubber pipe that is in the way.


Once you put in place the new mount, tighten the 2 lower bolts almost completely and remember to put back in place the metal cap protection on the top of the mount.
(A suggestion: before to start, buy a new metal thin cap that protects the left engine mount from the heat of the exhaust pipe, because probably it will be worn as it was in my case)


then lower the car slowly (checking that the mount bolt fits into the bracket hole and that the protection cap remains in place).
Once the engine is in place, tighten all the bolts and nuts.


Done!
now you can sweep off the sweat from your forehead........but wash your hands first!


PS
I forgot, buy only genuine LR mounts, the aftermarket will worn faster and easier; the part number is KKB500750, and if you don't want to waste money, try here Engine Mounting Bracket DEF - Land Rover Part KKB500750 , it will take 1 week to be delivered.