Best way to thief-proof my new driving lights.

I was thinking of drilling and puting a pop rivet through each bolt instead of using a roll pin, will require drilling and punching most likely to get them out.

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Originally Posted by alien

I fittted roll pins to the lights on the wife's buzz box.
The pins I had fitt with about 5mm out each side.
The nut can be loosened and all the adjustments made with out touching the pins.

The key is to make it hard enough for the pondlife to move on, not frustrate them into doing dammage.

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If the roll pin sticks out that far, would it not make it easy to remove with some sharp nose pliers? Or are they a tight enough fit you still need to bash them out??

What size roll pin for an M10 bolt?

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Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

Could try this mob (they appear to be off line at the moment, but had some good stuff if I recall) http://www.barrinut.com.au/

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I have checked them out before, but their website was very poor, and had no sort of catalogue or anything like that, so I gave up on that idea. Ill be curious to see what their new site is like.

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Originally Posted by Scouse

Instead of a roll pin, I use a small padlock.

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I have heard of this used before. Could be a good idea. Perhaps for the cross bolt that holds the light to the mounting bracket that would be the way to go. Then I could just remove the lights and leave the brackets there?

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Originally Posted by cal415

I was thinking of drilling and puting a pop rivet through each bolt instead of using a roll pin, will require drilling and punching most likely to get them out.

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Sounds like a more of a permanent solution than the roll pins? I can't imagine enjoying trying to drill out a small rivet in that confined space

what about making the lights a circuit in the 12v, anyone touches and zap! :twisted:

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Originally Posted by damo_s

Sounds like a more of a permanent solution than the roll pins? I can't imagine enjoying trying to drill out a small rivet in that confined space

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I guess it depends how confined the mounting points on your bull bar are, wouldnt be an issue for me as i have fairly easy access to the mount bolts.

Scratch and bash the covers/housings, get overspray in multiple neutral colours on them, get some rust coloured paint/treatment for the mountings, stick tape on them that looks like it is holding the lenses on, make them look like rubbish not worth stealing. But then it'll look as dodgy as my One Ten :p

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Originally Posted by isuzutoo-eh

...make them look like rubbish not worth stealing. But then it'll look as dodgy as my One Ten :p

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hahaha as I was reading this I though - "My god, I've used this method on my whole 110!!" :lol2:

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Originally Posted by Yorkie

what about making the lights a circuit in the 12v, anyone touches and zap! :twisted:

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Ever picked a car battery up by both terminals and......... Noted it does not give you a boot?;)

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Originally Posted by bob10

How many people here have actually had their lights stolen? If you are paranoid, have your lights so you can disconnect them , and store them away. Sheeeesh, the sky is falling, Bob

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Me too, I had both my Hella 4000's stolen at a local boat ramp in broad daylight one afternoon. Even took the ram off the top of the snorkel. People around everywhere but nobody saw it happen:confused:

Never got the fascination with having driving lights the best way to stop them from being stolen is not to have them.

putting a roll pin through is the best way to install them while still having them removable and a 3x15mm roll pin is whats required in an M10 bolt To keep the adjusability of the lights double nut the thread and leave about a 2mm gap between the nut thats actually doing the work of mounting the light and the one thats going to give you your security.

In the security nut drill through it on the flat then hammer in the roll pin in most m10s will have a minimum of a 17mm nut on them so center up the roll pin, then solder fill the ends, file and lightly polish the solder fill the gap between the 2 bolts with grease, wipe of the excess then paint