Fantastic work Cookie!
If you go into production you have a potential customer here
Cheers Charlie
Great conversion mate. Can you answer a few questions as I am doing a conversion on my series III. I have gone down a different path, but there are similarities.
1 - What is the disk off?
2 - What is the calliper off?
3 - Which State do you live in - interested in your Engineer and where he was from.
4 - Do you mind sharing a few dimensions of the calliper brackets you made? Offset, thickness, etc?
5 - How much machining on the hub and stub axle was required?
Sorry for so many questions, but as you may have gathered from other threads here, there is a LOT of interest in this.
Thanks heaps - Gav.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Fantastic work Cookie!
If you go into production you have a potential customer here
Cheers Charlie
Hi Gav
IMHO Gary has spent a lot of time in development and a lot of money sourcing and often rejecting many rotors and callipers. In the end it is his company name that is on the hook should something fail. I don't know that he is currently interested in disclosing what is essentially a company secret in relation to all the components.
I'm sure that he would be happy to convert your vehicle or sell you the kit with some items on the exchange basis.
In regard to the engineer, he has arranged with the certifying engineer that vehicles converted by him or with his kit will get the engineering certification at a discounted cost.
Diana
got a guestimation on the end cost and a time on kit run?
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
It also means that with Cookey's kit you can still use the original ROK Australia SIII (or SIIa) rims which is not possible with the Heystee and other conversions, so you have to add the purchase of non OEM rims and the non-standard appearance when doing a cost comparison with other kits.
On cost, Gary hasn't given me the final, but I'm thinking that good quality DBA rotors have to be at least $150/pair, plus calipers (when I looked at Defender calipers they were at least $250 each for Britpart not that he's using Defender calipers), then there's two sets of Timken or SKF wheel bearings and seals aprox $150-200, the swivel bearings and seal, the larger double diaphragm booster, 10 socket headed screws and the 2 rear wheel cylinders. That is on a 6 cyl SIII which already has the correct pedal box.
Then the cost of specialised components, the plasma cut blanks for the brackets and a number of hours of machining of the brackets, plus the hubs, rotors and the track correcting spacer. Finally there is the assembly of the swivels either for shipping or in-house conversion in Sydney.
Work it out yourself, but in my calculations of parts before any of Gary's work it is over $1k, so my guestimate the kit alone has to be over $1,500, plus labour for fitting and the engineers certificate.
Hopefully cookey will enlighten us all.
Thanks Diana, I didn't realise he was going Into production with this, so I understand completely that he won't want to disclose all his little secrets.
I'm 90% of the way there with mine, so I'll battle on and finish it now, but this looks like a great setup and if I hadn't invested so much time and effort into mine, I would just wait until Gary was ready to release his.
I've only to finalise the caliper, as I'm not happy with what I have got now, so that was the reasoning for my questioning on the bracket and caliper. I've got pretty much everything else to work.
Cheers - Gav.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Thats why I only asked his price.
I know what its going to cost me to do a disc conv on fozzy (with the torqueymeters Im looking at throwing down range Ive been assured drums wont cut it for the engineer)
If hes got a pre-engineer approved kit and his price is in range of some other irons that are in the fire then I'll shelve those irons and go his kit.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
I like this cookey's concept because it makes use of the standard hub and of the shelf discs (that are replaceable) as opposed to a complete custom disc. Most other DIY disc brake conversions I've seen (not LR specific) simply mount a disc over the hub face then add a custom calliper bracket. By mounting the disc this way it gets around the need for the odd PCD and doesn't need to fit over the existing hub face. This is why I was keen to hear the engineers thoughts regarding the mounting of the disc to the hub.
I went out last night and had a look at the back of the 101 hub, custom machining would still be required on the discs as the 101 has reinforcing ribs behind meaning the disc would need to have a circle/star shape machine out instead of a just a larger circle. Otherwise the hubs would need to same work cookey has done for mounting the discs. This could mean its all not financially feasible but maybe worth looking into.
***Edit, I'm an Idiot. The Zeus kit is just a custom disc assembly and mounts with what look to be extended studs?? Modified above to suite.
Hi Gav.
Have had a message from Gary tonight and he hasn't finalised calculating the price. The issue with the calipers is that there is some approved but minor machining to allow clearance with the OEM ROK rims so the parts are not quite off the shelf. If you are continuing with your own design, I would take a leaf out of Gary's book and change your booster for an 8" or 9" double diaphragm type but still use the Land Rover master cylinder. You will likely still have some front-rear balance issues, for this you will either have to add a proportioning valve to the rear or change the size of the rear cylinders.
Dave
I was present when the engineer reviewed Gary's vehicle (he also had a preliminary review of my 6x6 because it has never been registered in Australia).
IIRC there was a comment that he did some work with hot rods in Qld, so he may actually be able to do Qld engineering certification. Gary should be able to check.
Diana
If It can be appropriately passed in NSW it can be passed up here.
so I can work out which way Im going with my brakes the question is how much.
if Time on parts and cost works out to the near enough factor (if gavs guy can supply engineering documentaion that adds to the near enough fugde) I may as well support the local small guy.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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