Great stuff - you haven't mentioned what the parts came off?
Garry
I only get to drive one of my (many) ex-army Land Rovers for any considerable distance once every month or so. Without fail, every time I do I am reminded how the brakes are so antiquated, especially compared to more modern vehicles. For years I have been thinking to myself that I really should do something about improving the situation. I occasionally use a couple of these Landies for towing, which further reduces the braking ability. These thoughts usually consider updating the system to cope with current driving and traffic conditions. The main issues that I think need addressing are:
# Brake fade -- when descending long and/or steep declines, more so when towing.
# High maintenance -- constant need for adjustment and cleaning.
# Periodic wheel cylinder leakage.
# Intermittent pulling to either side, varying between hot and cold.
# Fluid bleeding issues with most models.
# Very poor braking when reversing.
# High cost of servicing and frequent overhaul.
# Noticeably lower braking ability than most other vehicles that I share the road with.
Having read various forums discussing this subject and looking at available kits on the market, I decided look into the feasibility of developing something myself. I have some fabricating skills and fortunately my workshop is equipped with a lathe and other machinery.
I recently purchased a Stage 1 V8, thinking it would be a good alternative to years of driving Falcon utes. In the usual manner of such things, I then decided to strip it down to a bare chassis and rebuild everything before putting it on the road. I was then offered, through a very good friend, the opportunity to acquire a Rangie engine that had been modified by increasing the capacity to 4.2 litres, along with a modified cam, ported heads and a motec engine management system. This combination reportedly produces in excess of 250 bhp with significantly enhanced torque.
In view of this being fitted to the Stage 1, my thoughts about increasing the braking ability assumed a higher priority.
My goals were to fit large ventilated rotors, with the most efficient calipers possible, increase the amount of boost available and address the balance between front / rear axles.
The other considerations were that I wanted to retain the ability to use standard Series wheels in addition to 15 inch aftermarket varieties, use easily obtainable parts at moderate cost, and do all the fabrication work myself.
Well, after countless hours sorting through various calipers and rotors, and several attempts to make what seemed like suitable combinations fit, only to find it not possible for one reason or another, I finally settled on a set up that I am happy with.
I found a little spare time over Xmas and fitted the whole set up to one of my ex-army Series 3's. At the same time, I renewed all the tie rod ends and lubricated the steering relay.
I then fitted a recond brake pedal box complete with a 8 inch dual diaphram booster, a new dual circuit Series 3 master cylinder and a dual brake circuit failure actuator.
To address brake balance and prevent rear wheel lock up, the rear wheel cylinders were reduced to a smaller diameter.
Over the past few weeks I have been bedding in the brakes and attending to a few other odds and ends while waiting for a Certifying Engineer to inspect the vehicle.
Well, the Engineer has finally driven and tested everything and has given his approval. He was actually very impressed with the stopping distances and pedal feel, and in the manner that this conversion was undertaken. He was able to repeatedly stop from 80 km/h without fade or pulling, the greatest distance being the first application in 27 metres. I am quite amazed that 7.50x16 Olympic Steelflex are capable of this result!! He also commented that he has been unable to match this result whilst testing both late model Patrols and Landcruisers.
Cookey
Great stuff - you haven't mentioned what the parts came off?
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Looks Good.
Have you kept the drums on the back?
Can you tell us more? ie , mounting calipers etc.?
Didiman
I have retained the original rear brake shoes and drums, however I have reduced the diameter of the rear wheel cylinders. Reason being, the front calipers have no self-energising ability and therefore require an increased hydraulic pressure to obtain the desired increased clamping force. When this increased pressure is applied to the rear brakes, there would be a tendency for the rear wheels to prematurely lock. By fitting cylinders of a smaller diameter, the force applying the rear shoes is reduced (pressure x area of pistons). The cylinder diameter must be reduced by the correct amount to have maximum rear wheel braking without lock up.
The caliper mounting brackets are a one piece design machined from a block of mild steel, which starts out at 32mm thickness.
This is machined in such a way as to provide the correct offset to mount the caliper centrally over the new rotor.
The finished mounting bracket looks like this.
The bracket is drilled on a jig to match the stub axle bolt pattern and drilled and tapped to mount the caliper.
The back of the hub is machined to take the rotor, which is mounted by 5 high tensile bolts.
The rotors are common and readily available, however some machining is required.
The 4 piston alloy calipers are superior in design to Land Rover/Range Rover types and are readily available, however some machining is required.
The hubs are standard Series 3 or Stage 1, however some machining is required.
To maintain the original wheel track and to provide clearance for the calipers, the centre of an original front brake drum is machined out and attached using the original retaining screws.
The original front brake hoses are retained.
The original brake pedal box is modified to accept a dual diaphram booster and new brake pipes made up to suit.
Cookey
Love your work. Was the engineer happy with how everything went together (as opposed to just the braking ability)? Gives me some ideas for the 101! The disc to hub mounting makes it all look so much more feasible than the Zeus conversion.
Well done.
Nice work.
Didiman
howd you go getting it past engineering?
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Last edited by 101RRS; 3rd January 2017 at 06:05 PM.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Fantastic work! It all looks fantastic! Sooooo, when are you going into production? Beats having to buy out of the UK... Zeus, or Europe.... Heystee.... Thanks for the great pics!
No problems, everything passed first attempt. The Engineer was actually impressed by the professional manner in which this was undertaken. As well as inspecting the vehicle, I prepared another complete set up for him mounted on an engine stand, and also had another set of all components laid out on the bench for him to inspect and photograph. I even sectioned a hub after machining, so that he could see and measure the thickness of the casting.
Cookey
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