Hi clubagreenie and who on earth told you that![]()
only if you fit it to a jeep, but then they catch fire by themselves anyway so no great loss.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Hi clubagreenie and who on earth told you that![]()
Breath tim breath![]()
FFS what does it take to convince people that they are being fed BS?
Hi THE BOOGER and I am always interested in the different reasons people “think” they need a DC/DC device.
Don’t get me wrong, they do work, IN SOME SITUATIONS, but, as scanfor “delicately” put, it’s the misleading advertising that has unsuspecting people thinking they are going to destroy their batteries if they don’t fit one of these wonder devices.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Hey Mick Marsh, sorry my frustration about these things appears to have been vented in your direction, and for that I apologise.
It was really meant as a general comment and was in no way meant to attack your question.
On a more constructive note, I agree with others that you only need a MPPT solar controller, a VSR (Voltage sensitive relay) to isolate the system from your crank battery, and the proper size cable to minimise Voltage drop to the deep-cycle battery.
That's the arrangement I've used for the past 5 years and the fridge runs all day every day without problems.
The same useless elec that cut all my handmade work up.
Apparently I need a big old school solenoid. All this despite the fact I still haven't fitted a second battery, it's an accident waiting to happen even when not connected. All these new fangled elec devices are.
no disrespect to Tims stuff but essentially all I use is a big solenoid runing off of the ignition and the oil light switch. if the ignition is not on and the engine does not have oil pressure then the solenoid does not engage.
That said.
My system is exceptionally primitive but allows me to quickly and easily do a couple of advanced tricks that I would say 99.9+ percent of people will never do with the draw back of given 2 batteries the same size Tims system delivers about an extra 50-60% time between starts/charge required over mine.
I can get that out of my system BUT it needs monitoring and playing with to get it.
My advice.
Unless you have the requirement to be able to relatively quickly turn your 12V system into a 24 v system for the purpose of jumpstarting trucks or welding get a traxride installed.
If you have one of the rear power outlets and you want to be able to take a battery tank for the purpose of running lights at night/leave a fridge at camp(say in the camper trailer or the caravan) but want the flexability of maintaining a dual battery in the car for when you want to overnight without the hassle of plugging the car in to keep the fridge running.
Fit a traxride.
If you want a simple no muss no fuss dual battery system
Fit a traxride.
if you want a dual battery system where just the second battery is a removable battery tank or is in the camper/caravan
Fit a traxride.
IF someone tries to sell you a DC-DC charger for a 12v-12v system and you're not using an exotic battery with very specific charging requirements and limits. Tell them you expect an in writing guarentee of payment for the life of the unit, batteries + vehicle at the rate of $1 per A/H of energy that the DC-DC charger wastes AND you want to go double or nothing over the difference in charge times if the DC-DC charges a nominally flat battery faster than my primitive system or a traxride when fitted to the same vehicle the contract is void, if its slower than the other 2 systems then for every full hour its slower the payment rate doubles (1 full hr=x2 2=x4 3=x8 4=x16) (if you find a dealer DUMB enough to agree to this please let me know I have some wonderfully large 1000AH+ batteries). Then tell them that with the payment you'll (you guessed it)
Fit a traxride
If you've any doubt.
Fit a traxride.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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