How was the camshaft end float?
Camshaft timing gear tightened?
Possibly a hydraulic lifter?
Cheers
Did a head gasket change and installed an AMC head over easter and have a few issues in the aftermath.
The latest one started last night when I got in the D2 to head out for dinner. The engine had been fine earlier in the day, but when I started up there was an obvious knocking sound. Lifting the bonnet it was pretty loud and seemed to be coming from the top of the engine.
I'd been very careful adjusting injector bump clearance earlier in the day but had driven the d2 without any issues after I'd done that, so I've got my fingers crossed that I haven't broken an injector.
The noise I'm getting is non-rhythmic and sounds knock-knock - pause - knock over the space a second or so.
I will lift the rocker cover later today, but wondering if anyone had suggestions what it could be. It doesn't sound especially like rotating part knocking.
cheers
Paul
How was the camshaft end float?
Camshaft timing gear tightened?
Possibly a hydraulic lifter?
Cheers
I have the same symptoms, knocking comes and goes. Mine is 2 knock per second. I realised there was too much oil in the engine and removed some but no help. I am taking it to a mechanic on next Saturday. Let u know if there is fix.
I didn't check the end float. I didn't see much point as the head and carrier are new. There didn't appear to be much visible wear on the camshaft.
The timing gear was torqued to spec, I had both the cam and flywheel locked when this was done, so I'm assuming the timing should be ok.
Possibly a lifter. How would you check these?
Cheers
Paul
I've taken the cam cover off, and I can find anything broken. I've double checked the timing notches are lining up. With the flywheel notch dead centre in the timing hole, the camshaft notch is aligned with the hole in the cam carrier.
The only thing that I found amiss was the serpentine belt was misaligned by one rib on the harmonic damper, which I corrected. The engine has run about 30km fairly gently like this so hopeful not enough to cause damage. There was no play in the damper when I checked with the belt off.
After putting the cam cover back on I gave the engine a quick run - no knock. Refitted the viscous fan - no knock. I have a suspicion the air con clutch bearings are on the way out - the extra tension from the misaligned belt might have been enough to trigger the knocking noise?? Anyway seems problem is solved for now.
Cheers
Paul
I have noticed that my belt tensioner jumps around a fair bit on idle and one with a worn spring could possibly be the source of the noise.
The tensioner is in front of the alternator and vacuum pump.
Remember that the TD5 only has 4 glow plugs so when cold could have quite an uneven idle.
Regards Philip A
Good news so far then. Seems like you found it.
Certainly possible for the misaligned belt to cause a worn idler etc to make a noise. Misaligned on the Harmonic Balancer and making a noise could indicate some wear on the HB also.i.e just enough wobble at the right rpms to rattle/knock and then find a balance before doing it again.
If it comes back use a Screwdiver with the handle to your ear as stethescope (or use a stethescope if you have one) to locate where the noise is coming from. Obviously watch out for moving fans belts etc.
Cheers
The tensioner was replaced about 18 months ago and still seems ok. The belt was much more difficult to get on with the one rib misalignment so I'm guessing this equates to extra tension and load on the entire path.
I'm not getting any unusual noise or vibration from the serpentine belt or attached ancillaries with the belt correctly aligned. The only thing even remotely odd is the pulley for the viscous fan seems to have uneven wear, and looks to be a little bit out of round. I suspect this is preexisting but I'll look at replacing anyway.
Apart from that I'm back to the main issue which is trying to decide if I really need to replace injector washers or not. The engine hasn't been that keen to start. It takes three goes for it to run from cold. I've retorqued the injector clamps to make sure they are ok, and I'm not getting clouds of white smoke when it decides to start. The glow plug boots all tore when I was disconnecting, so I've had to glue them back together this morning to make sure the leads are staying in place. When the engine starts it kicks off at about 500rpm, picks up to about 900-1000 then drops back down to the usual 760. Cylinder balance is a bit better than with the old head - +/-2 seems to be normal but it will sit within +/-1 for extended periods.
Cheers
Paul
It was actually a huge relief. I'd envisaged catastrophic damage resulting from some small step I'd managed to inadvertently mess up, so it was good to find the cause without too drama. I'd just taken off the fan to access the crankshaft pulley nut when I noticed the belt.
Cheers
Paul
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