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Thread: Td5 Injector bump adjustment

  1. #11
    discorevy is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Yes, slotted like the cam is, this will be the reason for the lag , you'll also pick up some horsepower as well as get better fuel economy etc.
    It's always nice to get a call from the TD5 owner asking what I did to their car once I've corrected cam timing after they have had head work done somewhere , then spent, in some cases years trying to find why it doesn't perform like it used to.
    A lot I've checked have been lined up with a crank sensor hole like yours ( without using the tool ).
    Sadly a lot have used silicone between the cam carrier and head on reassembly starving the lifters and injector rockers of oil.

  2. #12
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    Red face

    Quote Originally Posted by discorevy View Post
    Yes, slotted like the cam is, this will be the reason for the lag , you'll also pick up some horsepower as well as get better fuel economy etc.
    It's always nice to get a call from the TD5 owner asking what I did to their car once I've corrected cam timing after they have had head work done somewhere , then spent, in some cases years trying to find why it doesn't perform like it used to.
    A lot I've checked have been lined up with a crank sensor hole like yours ( without using the tool ).
    Sadly a lot have used silicone between the cam carrier and head on reassembly starving the lifters and injector rockers of oil.
    Ok did the cam timing again today, after some thought I locked the cam in place with the pin then took out 2 bolts and left third in but backed out a bit.

    Got underneath and took that little inspection plate off so I could get a better look to see where the 'slot' was.

    Moved crank in place with screwdriver in flywheel teeth levering against edge of inspection plate hole (gentle effort was plenty) and screwed crank locking pin in place. Once again thanks for the tip of what to look for.

    Went back up top and cleaned cam sprocket bolts and threads and loctited in place (pretty confident after yestys practice session that I had it right)

    pulled locking pins and rotated a few times to check slots were now where they should be top and bottom.

    The injector timing adjustment got rid of the big 3 second lag when aircon on, so no difference in takeoff aircon on or off, and big improvement in throttle response, and I did note when I had opened the cover the adjuster screws on the rockers were all over the place (b4 I undid the lock nuts and wound them out)

    So on the test drive last night with injectors done was happy with improvement and had only a very slight hesitation as pedal pushed down.

    After cam timing done properly and just been out test driving (had an oil leak to track down while I was covered in it so late finish again) I now have a 'normal' car that moves off the line with no throttle delay and plenty of go for its size.

    I have trawled the various land rover forums since I got the thing 3 months ago chasing the very dangerous delayed throttle response issue and am happy my thoughts to stop chasing the 'technical electrikery stuff' and get back to checking the mechanical setup paid off.

    Thanks Discorevy for setting me straight on what I should be looking at.

  3. #13
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    Brining up a old post :P

    But which side of the nib of the cam carrier should it be set to ?




    I would think the left side ? then that makes the timing mark line up for the tool?

  4. #14
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    Can you tell by where the lobes are at full lift? Im pretty sure it’s the right

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Four Loko View Post
    Brining up a old post :P

    But which side of the nib of the cam carrier should it be set to ?




    I would think the left side ? then that makes the timing mark line up for the tool?
    The right side, so line on edge followed by number and cam slot past the hole, as per first pic.

  6. #16
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    Thanks all, I will adjust as per the first pic once my AMC head arrives.

  7. #17
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    to do a confirmation on it...

    A timing dowel pushed into the hole in the picture also sets the corect position for doing the first injector of the sequence.

    If you have a mis mraked cam or damage to the face of the head you can use this to set your reference point.

    no, disregard this.... its incomplete. at the time of writing., I left out the last step of measureing from the edge of the pin back to the mark......

    once the pin is in you need to measure back something like 5mm off the pin, I'll see if i can find the number later
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    to do a confirmation on it...

    A timing dowel pushed into the hole in the picture also sets the corect position for doing the first injector of the sequence.

    If you have a mis mraked cam or damage to the face of the head you can use this to set your reference point.

    I don't get it, are you saying the line with number would then need to roll back to be in the timing pin hole so the cut out on the gear will be flush with the nib ?

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Four Loko View Post
    I don't get it, are you saying the line with number would then need to roll back to be in the timing pin hole so the cut out on the gear will be flush with the nib ?
    missed the last part, you need to measure back off the pin.... My bad on an incomplete post due to distracting kids wanting to go out and about....

    IIRC the measurement is something like 5mm... If I can find the original info I'll post it up.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  10. #20
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    Post number 6 as per red arrows is the definitive setup including for piston 1

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