Discovery Tdi 300 crank

**Phil H** · 26th April 2013, 03:05 PM

I remember Anzac day 2013 for all the wrong reasons... my Disco went bang.
I spent today underneath it removing the sump and having a look around and its not pretty. That tick that became a loud banging sound was the No 1 big end bearing flogging itself to death.
In short the crank has been marked, badly enough that I catch a fingernail in the grooves. everything else looks ok.

The questions ... crank regrindable or toast ?
If its toast ... where to get a new or second hand one from ?
any hints on getting the motor out ?
any other suggestions ?

I really feel like

at the moment.

and 1999 Tdi 300 with 256k on the clock ... I expected a lot more mileage than that

**87County** · 26th April 2013, 03:23 PM

Originally Posted by Phil H

..
and 1999 Tdi 300 with 256k on the clock ... I expected a lot more mileage than that

have you had it since new ?

**rangieman** · 26th April 2013, 03:35 PM

Ouch

Depending how bad the crank is it can be ground at a price . The Tdi , s have been know to where big ends at those sort of ks , If your after another motor pm me

**justinc** · 26th April 2013, 05:53 PM

Sorry to hear

, another 1998/99 crank/ bearing failure. I would fit a tested used earlier crankshaft, they seem to have a far better reputation for longevity, I certainly wouldn't repair/ grind a late tdi crank.

JC

**Phil H** · 26th April 2013, 07:13 PM

Unfortunately haven't had the car since new, just bought it last september with 242k on it, hence my severe disappointment.
I love it to drive but if this is going to happen again I think I'll move it on and get something japanese.
Not really sure which way to jump at the moment but its a headache I can well do without.

**justinc** · 26th April 2013, 07:41 PM

Phil, Don't despair, Jap stuff can be just as bad and more expensive!

I would PM Chris about an engine, OR a crank replacement isn't TOO bad a scenario. Are you able on the tools?

JC

**Phil H** · 26th April 2013, 08:16 PM

I'm no mechanic but have some basic ability. I've got reasonable tools and a haynes workshop manual. managed to get the sump off sofar

I think getting the motor out will be the most difficult bit. Hopefully I dont have to pull the motor down too far to fix it.

Just gotta get over the disappointment and start thinking logically again.

**justinc** · 26th April 2013, 08:24 PM

I know it can be a very disappointing time, but the best thing is it isn't too hard to fix, just awkward and time consuming. Engine out, rotate on stand upside down and remove crank, leave conrods etc in place

. The best bit is you get to replace the timing case to block gasket, that will leak anyway shortly, a rear main seal, some new big end and main bearings, and T seals.

Way cheaper than getting rid of the vehicle and buying something else, the 1998/ 99 d1 is the better model of this series for other reasons, so take heart it's not all bad!

PLUS, you have at call plenty of people to help with advice, and depending on where you are located even some physical help too! This site is all about the LR enthusiast community

JC

**Phil H** · 26th April 2013, 08:33 PM

Thanks Justin

I might have to pull #1 rod as it may be ovaled. Not sure just how far all the metal has gone so not sure how far to strip the block.
All thoughts and help greatly appreciated.

**justinc** · 26th April 2013, 08:40 PM

No worries, Head off and there it is! Another advantage is head gasket replacement at 240,000km. It is almost due anyway at this point. (Waiting for Rangiemans input here...He He He

)

If the rod is damaged, the crank may even be broken. Number 1 is where the last one I saw broke, oblique crack right through the journal, the rod was holding it together, and the vehicle was still running like this

Good old tdi's!!

They are just as simple as a Holden red motor to work on.

JC

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