I have always found brake fluid to be about the best,you have to be carefull with where you get it.
Loctite "Freeze and Release" is very good too.
Andrew
I put this article in here as general interest to all. It is an extract from my amateur radio magazine. Jim
OILS ain’t OILS and PENETRANTS
aren’t necessarily PENETRANTS!
Rod VK2DAY came across an article recently on
the web about penetrating oils. Tests conducted by a US
based machinists magazine compared various brands of
penetrating oil on the ability to loosen rusted nuts. Many of
the oil brands listed are not available in Australia but one
which is commonly available here, WD40, was tested.
WD40 was the worst performer: whilst it halved
the torque needed to loosen a rusted nut if no oil was used,
it required at least twice the torque needed by the best oil.
However, it was found that a home-brew mixture of
50/50 automatic transmission oil and acetone outperformed
the best commercial oil requiring only half the torque and
approximately 1/10 the torque if no oil was used at all.
The report also suggests that power steering oil
works just as well as transmission oil.
Jim VK2MAD
-------------------------
'17 Isuzu D-Max
I have always found brake fluid to be about the best,you have to be carefull with where you get it.
Loctite "Freeze and Release" is very good too.
Andrew
DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
I made the 1 millionth AULRO post
Ed's Red is good stuff too. Developed for cleaning and protecting firearms.
Equal parts of Auto trans fluid, Kero, Mineral Turps and Acetone. IIRC.
You can leave the acetone out. It's a bit friendlier that way, but slower.
Always used a spray of diesel on rusted nuts etc. After breaking 3 wheel studs, I was told to use diesel and hey presto, no more broken studs. Bob
I just got similar info emailed to me, it must be doing the rounds.
might be something in it,
....... Ive never come across a seized bolt on an Auto transmission !!
acetone is pretty volatile tho, I usually use WD40 then heat the bolt with the oxy, then more WD40, probably not a good idea with acetone mix
here is the whole email as I rec'd it.
Penetrating Oils
Machinist's Workshop Mag recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts. (No, not that type of nuts)
They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
*Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen*
No Oil used ................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.
Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.
Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix. *ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid
This actually works well, power-steering fluid also works as well as trans fluid!
Could be right but how did they know that all the nuts had seized to the bolt the same amount. My old man used to put tar on problem threads and pipe joints. When he wanted to take them apart he would heat it with a primus heater that we used to heat the old soldering irons.
Lindsay
There is an industrial product, Chemsearch "Yield". This is the best loosener I have ever used since starting my apprenticeship in the 1950's. It is expensive, but it works. Google Chemsearch for an interesting read.
URSUSMAJOR
I must admit I'm also from the spray it, heat it up, spray it again and heat it until it burns camp.
RP7, WD40 whatever is the cheapest.
In the UK I always used PlusGas PLUS GAS FORMULA A AEROSOL 400ML - Buck & Hickman
Just found an MSDS and it's a hydrocarbon & mineral oil (a bitlike tranny oil & acetone ?)http://www.buckandhickman.com/Assets.../DS_163051.pdf
The hydrocarbon is Hydrotreated Heavy Naptha ? CAS 64742-48-9 : HYDROTREATED HEAVY NAPHTHA (PETROLEUM)
Smelt nice but I wonder what I was breathing in back then......
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
I've always used Penetrene, should be able to get it from Bursons in a 2l tin. Dismantled an 81 RRC in poor condition without too much trouble.
John
Series 2 LWB - Gone
Series 3 LWB - Gone
Series 1 LWB - Gone
81 RR 2 door - Gone
95 Disco v8 - The Next Victim
Apparently WD 40 is primarily fish oil! WD of course is for "Water Dispersant" Works great for wet electrics, but I must admit I have never found it outstanding as a penetrant.
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