Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: RRC front rubber hub cap, what to use to keep it on?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    back in the suburbs, near joondalup
    Posts
    3,438
    Total Downloaded
    0

    RRC front rubber hub cap, what to use to keep it on?

    On my 94' RRC the front hubs have a rubber cap that keeps in all the grease. Earlier RRC have steel caps front and rear

    This is usually kept in place by the centre cap on the OEM alloy rims.
    .

    I just bought a standard set of Disco 1 steel rims that have no centre cap.

    I'm sure I'm not to first to face this issue, how do you guys stop the rubber cap from getting knocked off when 4x4-ing?

    Original OEM cap: http://www.lr2go.com/media/catalog/p...ile_7_18_4.jpg


    I think this is a series hub but you can see where it fits, not exactly the same but at least you can see what I mean.
    http://forums.lr4x4.com/uploads/1157...166_230898.jpg
    If this gets knocked off all the swivel grease leaks out, or maybe it was the diff oil, either way it makes a bit of a mess and you loose grease from some thing vital

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Near Seven Hills, Sydney
    Posts
    4,342
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I have run rubber caps on my County against some pretty silly terrain and haven't had one knocked off yet. I reckon you'll struggle to lose one, I only replace them after I have used a screwdriver to remove them too many times.

    I think Dougal uses a cable tie to secure them on his Rangie, but thats more to prevent leaks if I understand correctly.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Kiwiland
    Posts
    7,246
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Yes, zip-tie.

    Early RRC's had steel mushroom caps which were integral to the CV stubs. Nothing to come off.
    Later metric axles all had the rubber caps, but they also had greased bearings, so there was nothing to come out if they come off. I'm running oiled bearings so the oil keeps trying to seep out. A bead of silicone inside the cap and a zip tie around it works perfectly.

    I run alloy wheels which protect the cap.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    back in the suburbs, near joondalup
    Posts
    3,438
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The steelies are for weekend Muddies only I run Alloys daily.

    The silicone & a zip tie sounds the way to go.
    BTW I have knocked the rubber cap off several times just changing wheels so that's why I wanted something to keep it on.

    Also I put a mix of 50/50 ones-shot grease & oil, best of both worlds
    or maybe master of none

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Kiwiland
    Posts
    7,246
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by HangOver View Post
    Also I put a mix of 50/50 ones-shot grease & oil, best of both worlds
    or maybe master of none
    Definitely the messiest of both worlds.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Kiwiland
    Posts
    7,246
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Well 2000km later my zip-tied rubber cap spat oil. It was the first use on a hot day (~30C) so I'm thinking it's building pressure and I need to lose the seals between the swivel and axle housing to let it vent through the axle breather.

    The cap moved enough that it tore the lip partly off it and once the lip was gone the cap kept moving and the oil kept coming. So the zip-tie was doing it's job of holding the cap down, the cap just wasn't up to it.

    I placed an o-ring in the groove on the hub so the (new) cap would push further over and seal against that. It all went on nice and snug, I went outside to clean the oil off the wheel and came inside to see the new cap had split in two places and was dripping oil already.

    These caps were the harder and shinier plastic. I've had others in the past that were a lot more rubbery (FTC5414). I'll be looking for more of those next time.
    Right now I'm out of caps. The old one is back on, partly split and full of silicone but it won't be road driven. I can get some replacement caps on Friday and will ease them on with the heat of a hair-drier.

    Can anyone confirm/deny whether series steel caps fit?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    back in the suburbs, near joondalup
    Posts
    3,438
    Total Downloaded
    0
    can't confirm re steel caps but I put a thin bead of silicon on the inside lip of the cap then cable tied it on when the silicone was still wet. They still haven't been knocked off leaked.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    back in the suburbs, near joondalup
    Posts
    3,438
    Total Downloaded
    0
    can't confirm re steel caps but I put a thin bead of silicon on the inside lip of the cap then cable tied it on when the silicone was still wet. They still haven't been knocked off or leaked.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Kiwiland
    Posts
    7,246
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Genuine caps arrived yesterday. OMG these fit like they should.

    They have a real lip on them which fits nicely into the groove on the hub and is the same thickness all the way around. The taper fits perfectly onto the taper of the hub too.

    I threw one on without any silicone behind it and it's holding oil all by itself. Fancy that, just another problem caused by aftermarket parts being complete and utter poo.

    Genuine cap part number FTC5414.

  10. #10
    Roverlord off road spares is offline AT REST
    Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
    Vendor

    Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Tecoma Vic
    Posts
    9,642
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Genuine caps arrived yesterday. OMG these fit like they should.

    They have a real lip on them which fits nicely into the groove on the hub and is the same thickness all the way around. The taper fits perfectly onto the taper of the hub too.

    I threw one on without any silicone behind it and it's holding oil all by itself. Fancy that, just another problem caused by aftermarket parts being complete and utter poo.

    Genuine cap part number FTC5414.
    You will probably find the genuine ones are a softer material, they flex more and the lip sits nicely on the groove. The aftermarket ones you'll find have a harder feel a more plastic feel. They split and don't go the distance.
    Genuine ones aren't expensive so why would you bother with aftermarket ones. A lick of silicon on the lip also helps them stay there. It's quite amazing how something that just sits there can go through mud dirt bush and still hold on.


Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!