I got a Turnerss 'performance head' last year with everything fitted. Didn't think about the valves just fitted the head and was on my way in a day. No problems since.Cheers
Luke
Was wondering if anyone that has bought a fully assembled (Valves, Springs, etc.) 300TDi head, here or overseas were informed by the sellers if the valves and seats had been lapped in.
The head that I just bought came with all the bits, but unassembled, so of course I lapped in the valves to their seats, before assembly.
Got me thinking whether the sellers that sell fully assembled 300TDi heads actually went to the trouble of lapping in the valves, has anyone dismantled their heads to see if this was actually done, any feedback would be appreciated, Regards Frank.
I got a Turnerss 'performance head' last year with everything fitted. Didn't think about the valves just fitted the head and was on my way in a day. No problems since.Cheers
Luke
hi frank, this is how they would do it,
Synchro-seating valves « Automotive Mechanics
jc
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
Hi Frank, I'm obviously very interested in how you're going with yours.
They said it would be ready to go & I needed to get it on, so I didn't really think about dismantling it. I did however set the valve clearances a little wide to start with just in case.
After about 1000km there was absolutely no change in the clearances so I reset them to specs and it haven't looked at it since. I intend to check it again at about 10000km when it will need the first oil change since as well, probably after Xmas.
Did your unassembled valves require the lapping you gave them ? I mean did you give them a leak test or go by appearances ?
Anyhow, it's probably a wise move and it'll certainly do no harm.
Lapping valves in if they are new and the seats are new should only require tooth paste or kerosene if you use a more robust paste you are wearing out your valves prematurely think about it. I have rebuilt heavy diesel engines for a long time from Lister singles to 5000 hp EMD's and never lapped in new valves and seats just blued to check contact if the valve didn't have 100% contact i would use tooth paste or diesel injector lapping paste to create a full contact and leave it at that. If you use heavy lapping paste you must wash all parts afterwards to prevent further impact on components.
Regards Gippslander
My head was manufactered for/by AMC, I doubt very much if the manufacturer would fit the valve seat inserts, machine the seats, fit valve guides, etc., I figured the merchandiser would have that done.
As I said my AMC came unassembled except for valve seat inserts and valve guides, every valve and seat were blued and not one had the required seat width or complete sealing. I numbered each valve and lapped them in till I had a constant width and seal, larger on the exhaust than the inlet.
After having cleaned up the bowl areas of the ports and port matched to the gasket, I gave the head a thorough degrease inside and out, suprised at how much casting junk was still inside the head along with some soluble oil (I think), hosed finally with water till nothing more came out, blew out with air and let sit in the sun to dry. After fitting (and oil with assembly lube) seat washers, valve stem seals, and the rest of the valve train, I tipped some penetarating fluid into each port and left overnight, no leaks anywhere, so cleaned it up and set aside for installation, will be using the supplied Laminated metal head gasket
Good job
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
Sounds like you covered all the bases Tank hope she runs sweet for you.
We share the same first nameand i have been known by the same nickname on odd occasions.
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