300tdi as an interim engine

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Originally Posted by Vern

Steve, just buy a set of stamps and bung the 300tdi number on an Isuzu, all done then:p

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You forgot about needing to put a piece of wood under the accelerator pedal to de-tune it.......otherwise it would be too obvious it wasn't a 300tdi :wasntme::wasntme:

Steve

Just screw the fuel screw in all the way:D

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Originally Posted by steveG

Obviously I'm up for a few parts now to even put it back together, but after some guidance from you 300tdi gurus as to anything else I should be doing while its all in bits.

Here's the definite list so far:

• New big end bearings
• New timing belt and pulleys + front crank seals
• Replace broken rockers/adjusters
• Replace bent pushrods
• Head and manifold gaskets
• P gasket
• New hoses

The head needs a freshen up. Is it economic to get a quick valve grind done and new valve seals etc or does it rapidly become cheaper to get a replacement head?

Pistons - worth removing the rings and cleaning out any carbon buildup (or replacing rings) or best to leave them alone?

Worth replacing the cam seal while I'm in there?

Anything else I've missed?

Steve

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Id say seeing as you have it this far new rings a quick hone and away you go , The cam seal if its leaking replace if not i would,nt upset it
Your call on the head a new complete one with gaskets bolts ect from Turners uk cost me about $860 deliverd last nov;)

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Originally Posted by rangieman

Id say seeing as you have it this far new rings a quick hone and away you go , The cam seal if its leaking replace if not i would,nt upset it
Your call on the head a new complete one with gaskets bolts ect from Turners uk cost me about $860 deliverd last nov;)

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So how do you hone it without ending up with crap all over the crankshaft?

Steve

Normally you take the crankshaft out. You could place rags all over the bearing surfaces, washing the whole thing afterwards will also get rid of the crud. You would also have to blow out the oil galleries.

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Originally Posted by slug_burner

Normally you take the crankshaft out. You could place rags all over the bearing surfaces, washing the whole thing afterwards will also get rid of the crud. You would also have to blow out the oil galleries.

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That's the only way I've ever done it too, but thought there might be a tricky way of doing it with the crank in-situ that I wasn't aware of.
Pulling the crank takes the job to a whole different level - its not happening!!

Steve

steve, honing with crank in is fine as long as you tape up the journals first, and afterwards thoroughly flush the bores with crc or carb cleaner, then oil them lightly. you will find any honing ' swarf/ fines' will be washed out away from the mains by the cleaning fluid used to clean the bores down afterward. i have used this method forever.


jc

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Originally Posted by justinc

steve, honing with crank in is fine as long as you tape up the journals first, and afterwards thoroughly flush the bores with crc or carb cleaner, then oil them lightly. you will find any honing ' swarf/ fines' will be washed out away from the mains by the cleaning fluid used to clean the bores down afterward. i have used this method forever.


jc

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Thanks JC :)
So do you reckon its worthwhile at 300K km's to do a quick hone and throw some new rings in while its all apart?

Steve

Obviously not JC but if it was me I would hone any cylinder bore that I took the piston and rings out of. You will have to re bed them in. Would I take the pistons and rings out of your 300 Tdi, yes if there was a loss of compression and the rings had lost their tension/stuck. At 300k bearings, rings and a head gasket and freshen up would see you through for another 300k. The issue here is that the engine is only an interim solution for you. I think I still would.

Thanks SB.
Although its not going to be a long term engine I can't bring myself to do a dodgy job, as I know it will bite me in some way if I do.

There's also the thought that if its done properly I'll probably recoup some of the cost when its sold.

I haven't been able to get hold of the engine reconditioner I've used in the past for head work etc, so I phoned another head mob close to my work today. $650 for crack/pressure test and valve grind etc - plus parts.
Thinking they don't want the job :(

Better off to buy a set of seat cutters and do it myself for that price!!

Steve