Best max tyre size for standard Defender 110

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Originally Posted by MLD

Bryce,

Subject to budget, give the BFG AT's and the Pirelli Scorpion ATR a serious think. Both have scored well in the 'all round' stakes in the balance between wear qualities/grip/road manners. Both are at the top end of the budget.

2 items on your truck you should never never never compromise on: brakes and tyres. Amortised over 80,000 kms the difference between a budget priced (not questioning quality) set of tyres and the higher priced set is not that much.

If you are leaning towards the 265/75's budget for a new set of rims with a 0 offset or modifying the disco 1 rims. You will loose about 30% (no science to that statement) of lock to lock. If you think a 3 point tun into a car space in the local shopping car park is a pain, try thinking of a significant reduction to that. You will also experience more rear spring mount rub than the 255.

If you are on the 265/75 wagon, stick with your 235/85 standard size. You won't have the rub issues and maintain the same rolling circumference. What you spend extra on the 235/85 over 265/75 will be far cheaper than the mods required to overcome the shortcomings and inconvenience of the wider tyre on the standard defender.

MLD

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Thanks again MLD.
I think I may take your advise and go for some new rims with 0 offset. Tyres being the long(er) term investment they are I may as well go for something I can get a bit more out of now while I have the chance to change.
By the way how do you tell the offset given the rim details? I get what the 16x7 means but how can you deduce offset given the rest of the info? Sorry I'm just a dumb chippy trying to learn to be a grease monkey!

Bryce,

In your OP you said you had disco rims on a defender. Only the disco 1 rims fit the defender. Both the disco 1 steelies and alloy rims have a +33mm offset. I have both the steelies and alloys and I think the stamp on one or both are 16x7J33.

The factory steel rims are harder than the aftermarket rims. Some complain that the factory steelie doesn't hold air and has a tendency to deflate. I haven't experienced that. You'll need to modify the offset on the factory rim which is not much more than new aftermarket rims. Engineering might be a sting in the tail if you don't have access to a mate in the trade.

If you are after new rims and you settle on non-factory steel, go the Dynamic rims over the King rims. Feedback i've heard on the King is they are soft. Yes that makes them easy to bash out on the side of the track but the reason you are stationary trackside is because you bent a soft rim.

I still think that the 235/85 is a better solution to your problem.

enjoy, MLD

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MLD

I still think that the 235/85 is a better solution to your problem.

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I have followed this thread with academic interest since I have no intention of changing from the 235/85x16 tyres that Land Rover thought were suitable for my Defender.

My reading of the information presented here and elsewhere is that fitting larger tyres can be an expensive exercise with very dubious benefits. In fact I can't think of many benefits but have read of several disadvantages and can think of a few more.

They are often significantly more expensive and less readily available. They often require the further expense of fitting of new rims. They often necessitate further modifications to deal with the problems they create. They often create handling and alignment problems. The slight improvement in clearance would often be balanced by the deterioration in turning circle, which on some tracks would be a greater inconvenience. In a lot of circumstances, they reduce performance because of the higher gearing.

On balance I am a bit mystified about why anyone would bother with anything other than the standard 235/85s.

After much more research I have jus had fitted a set of Summit Mud Hogs in 235/85. See how they go...