Painting

Thanks rocket, but what is 10o/o?

Also, another question, REMLR lists 2 paints, one is the lustreless, the other needs the flattener, is that correct? Do they both produce the same finish?

I'm part way through painting Sandie and am using a small compressor with 1 part enamel. Looks good and is really easy to use. Nice gloss finish with little drama.

For your beasty the drab should spray quite easily and is worth the relatively small investment in a compressor; once you've got one you'll be shocked how many jobs you use it for! (well I am anyway)

The real reason for the post is the ute liner comment a few replies ago. I enquired about that stuff to use as sound and heat insulation and you need to go to the distributor/supplier and they do the job on site as it needs specialist equipment. I reckon that's not the go, so asked a panel beater mate and he put me on to a spray material they use under guards as a chip protector and sound deadener. You need a special 4mm nozzle gun which he got for me, plus I used 6 1 litre bottles of this black stuff. Its a bit messy but the difference just in tapping the floor of the tub with a hammer is quite noticable.

I simply turned the tub over and applied 3 or 4 coats of this stuff everywhere under the tub and wheel arches. Built up about 3mm of the stuff which seals seams and really deadens sound.

Also done under the wings, the 2 bits of the gear stick housings and the seat box and will do the floor panels once re-assembled. I reckon I'll need 2 more bottles but will have sprayed under the entire landy, sealing seams and providing excellent sound reduction for an all up cost inc the gun of under $100. The only remaining issue will be the firewall but I'm thinking of the stick on heat shield stuff for that. Any ideas or comments?

Cheers
Richard

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Originally posted by Phoenix
Thanks rocket, but what is 10o/o?

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100% less 90%

[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/tongue.gif[/img]

he hasnt found that key on his keyboard yet

morning rocket!

:oops: makes sense now that you mention it, these keyboards can be confusing things [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img]

Maybe I should search for some spray gear to borrow and spend the time masking up?

Some things to think about at least [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

Heya Phoenix, i've got a little Warner Airless Spraygun which has been working well for me for the last couple years. You get them for about $150 from memory from Bunnings (don't quote me on the price though), but they are still a lot cheaper than the compressor versions. Just plug it in an extention lead and you're away!! 8)

interesting idea, what is the finish like?

[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img] Hi Phoenix
I have now found the % key it was hidding on top of the 5 :oops: the paint that I used on "Aggie" my 68 GS was Wattyl Lusterless Enamel Olive Drab Wattyl Code 516-31088 741382

Defence Department Code 8010-66-025-5002
it is spraying enamel the Thinners that I used were those recommened to me and they are Wattyl AQ 655 Enamel Thinners UN 1993 901-19062 that is directly off the tin(4ltrs)

the 10% means 100mls of thinners to 1litre of lusterless olive drab
YOU MUST STIR THIS STUFF VERY WELL WITH A BROAD PADDLE
any greater thinning and it will run off the job :oops: 8O :twisted:
Ihave brushed this with good results [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img] The lusterless olive drab comes with the flattener already in it [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

Thanks rocket.

I think that i'll start there. That is what I thought about the flattner, I just wanted to check in case I got it wrong :oops:

That isn't much thinners, but then again, last time I was spraying something, it was varnish, and that is a bit different.

Would you still thin it out if you were brushing? Thinning is only for spraying isn't it?

Yes, I have lots of questions, but why make mistakes that somebody else already has made :wink:

Hi Phoenix. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]
Yes still thin it 10% as it is the drying agent, if you are going to brush the inside of the roof it may be better to start with 500ml of paint and 50mls of thinners, and note the coverage, you can always give a second coat after 6 hours, the biggest problem with the stuff is mixing as in a 4litre tin the pigment and flattener can be up to 25mm+ thick on the bottom and it all has to be mixed as otherwise the colour will vary,(been there done that) was lazy on one occassion and one side of a rear tub was a different colour, guess who had to redo it :oops: the finished product does look quite good, as it ages the green shade fades to the khaki colour as in my avitar :wink:

Thanks for the hints rocket.

ONe question though, do you paint the caping? I have heard no, and I think whoever did the doors last was lazy and painted it.