Isuzu MSA gearboxes use engine oil too:)
So those of us that have the LT95 TBox behind the MSA still only have to carry engine oil to top them up.
Printable View
Isuzu MSA gearboxes use engine oil too:)
So those of us that have the LT95 TBox behind the MSA still only have to carry engine oil to top them up.
Yep. I know they are different boxes.:cool:
So how is it ok. I'm wondering if the faster spinning shafts and gears that would cause the oil to foam are near the bottom of the box and completely submerged in oil. That would not allow air to enter the oil and therefore no foaming.
I was hoping someone would comment on how these boxes differ in design.
Happy Days
OK, for those interested, a pic of the mainshaft 'wear'.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1403575282
Cheers,
Daryl.
That is serious wear Daryl. There is no way that the bearing would be still ok running on that. My guess is that the bearing has been replaced recently, knowing the vehicle was being sold.
Brian, you might be right there, as I thought that the reduced radius of the shaft might have at least cracked the plastic roller cage, but it was intact and uncracked.
Also, the rear plate was easy to remove ... no prying required.
Anyhow, we'll wait and see what happens with the Penrite Pro Gear, but so far it shifts 300% better than 20w-50 engine oil, which made 3-2 shift totally out of the question without double shuffling and half the other syncros weren't much better.
Cheers,
Daryl.
Joel, it isn't the detergents that create the foaming, any oil will foam, but they need specific additives to prevent foaming.
In engine oils this takes the form of a silicon oil, in gear oils I think they tend to use an ester polymer as the silicons can entrap air in the form of lots of tiny air bubbles (without the total milkshake effect)
Probably another reason why engine oils really have no place in gearboxes.
Engine oil was originally specified as back in the day gear oils weren't available with the wide viscosity span that a 15W-40 engine oil posses.
They just didn't flow well in a cold ambient.
These days specific manual gearbox oils are available that don't don't corrode brass synchros, and give better shift performance with those same synchros as they use specific friction modifiers for synchro use while protecting gears and bearings better than an engine oil can.
Thanks for the response mate.
I wasn't questioning the use of engine oil in the LT95 as it's widely known to work but I was interested to know why. I thought maybe the box was, maybe not intentionally but happened to not foam engine oil like a gearbox can.
Someone said earlier that they need a thinner oil to reach the shims. Well that's fine to look after the shims but then the gears might wear out or maybe the old box wasn't built to that tight of tolerance that the wear is undetectable.
I'm always on the look out for new and improved things and while engine oil might have been the best option in the day. There is probably much better stuff out there these days.
I'm not saying it will suit everyone but I like Redline Shock Proof oils. It doesn't look much like oil. Probably if you weighed up the cost of the stuff, it'd be better to use a cheaper oil and rebuild the box after many years. I came across it as it, like engine oil in the LT95, is know to work very well in the WRX gearbox. Apparently with a few mods, the amount of power a WRX will make created too much pressure between the teeth of the gears and they would just push each other apart. The Redline Shock Proof maintained enough lubrication under extreme pressure to prevent them failing as often yet it still flowed thin enough to allow the box to shift nicely. I doubt I needed it in the LT230 and my diffs but it's quietened them down all them same.
Happy Days