Master
Sorry mods if this is in the wrong place. Finally got around to doing something about having the car sit in the shed for extended periods without flattening the battery due to all those pesky computers that maintain a low current draw. Put a small solar panel (10w) on the shed roof, mounted an old ammo box on the wall to house the solar controller and the rolled up lead (when not in use). Mounted an LED voltage meter to monitor solar output and battery state, a couple of switches for control and job done. Lead plugs into the Anderson socket on the back of the car and when the second battery is full if it is not already connected to the main, it will do so via the dual battery controller in the car. Total cost about $50. Used old switches and wire from stock in cupboard. Pics included. Yep, could have done it better with a 24v panel, MPPT controller, etc, but this was cheap and it does the job. Just sharing in case anyone else may be considering this.
TopicToaster
SubscriberNice work.
I'd also make a simple cardboard sign saying something like "solar plugged in" that lives with the lead and you place it in front of the instrument panel when you plug it in.
Save's driving off with all your hard work dangling off the back of the car
Steve
1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
1988 120 with rust and potential
1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive
Master
yeah - I tie a piece of fluoro tape onto the lead so I see it whenever I go out - but one day ....... whats that dangling behind the car......
YarnMaster
SubscriberMy dad used to do that when he was working on a car.. I used to think it was a waste of time until one day I had to dash out and jumped in his car to borrow it and it had a large piece of paper on the steering wheel that said "NO OIL"... that day.. it really paid off!Originally Posted by steveG
Nice work.
I'd also make a simple cardboard sign saying something like "solar plugged in" that lives with the lead and you place it in front of the instrument panel when you plug it in.
Save's driving off with all your hard work dangling off the back of the car
Steve
Hercules: 1986 110 Isuzu 3.9 (4BD1-T)
Brutus: 1969 109 ExMil 2a FFT (loved and lost)
Master
I have been using the same thing for a few years now to maintain my camper battery and the ride on mower battery. I use a 10W panel for the ride on and a 40W panel for the camper battery running both through regulators mounted on top of the shed. Works great, both batterys are always charged up and costs me nothing to keep them charged, both were very cheap set ups too.
YarnMaster
SupporterMe too.
A couple of cheap 10 watt panels with leads and clips. Move them around at week or so intervalls on to the various trucks and tractors etc. Nothing with fancy controllers though. All I did was solder in a diode so I dont get reverse current when not charging.
!0 watts is less than 1 amp going in so figure regulators are not necessary.
Keith
Master
yeah I think you are probably right but as I am not clever enough to solder in a diode my main reason for a regulator is to prevent night time discharge and to prevent over-charge - the battery is 'full' when I park it so the trickle is just to top up what the car uses just sitting there but if there is a lot of sun one day or 2 after I park it it wont get too much. Even 1/2 an amp over 8 hours is going to push 4 amps in, 8 amps by day 2........ 10 days of sun and 40 amps in.... at least the regulator will 'float'. Of course I could just un-plug it..... LOB syndrome (lazy old bugger)
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